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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am bringing my 1990 Chrysler New Yorker Fifth Ave 3.3 V6 back from the dead. It only has 53k and is in perfect condition. The problem is that it dies after about 15-20 minutes of running (shortly after the fans come on). I have replaced a myriad of parts but nothing seems to be doing the trick. The car runs absolutely perfect for about 20 minutes, plenty of power, and idles very smoothly. When it gets hot, it will not idle, it dies and is difficult to restart. I highly suspect it could be the cam or crankshaft position sensor(s).
Parts I have replaced
-6 Injectors
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Throttle position sensor
-Air Idle Control Valve / New TB gasket
-Map Sensor
-Plugs & Wires
-Coil Pack/Distributor
-PCV valve & repaired various vacuum leaks
-Seafoamed engine through the vacuum line and removed and deep cleaned TB
-Fuel Filter
-New Batt. The alternator tested good.

How do I go about changing both the Crank and Camshaft sensors? Where are they located and how do I get to them?
Thank you, any input is greatly apreaciated.
 

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Virginia Gentleman
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Did you ever check for fault codes?
 

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Super Moderator
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Have you checked to see if you have spark and fuel pressure after it dies? Probably a little more diagnosis before throwing parts at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I should note it had no fault codes except for 12 & 55. It had consistent fuel pressure when I connected a gauge to the service port and I can hear the fuel pump running. If I recall correctly it was about 44PSI.
 

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. . . The car runs absolutely perfect for about 20 minutes, plenty of power, and idles very smoothly. When it gets hot, it will not idle, it dies and is difficult to restart. I highly suspect it could be the cam or crankshaft position sensor(s). . . .
The next time the engine stalls at full operating temperature, try this test. Inject starting fluid for about 5 seconds into the throttle body. If the engine starts and runs 1 - 2 seconds and dies again, your problem is fuel delivery. Most likely a fuel pump that will not hold proper pressure when it gets to operating temperature. If the engine will not start and run with starting fluid, then the problem is ignition / spark.
 

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Had a 1990 Grand Caravan with the 3.3 do this exact same thing. It turned out it was the fuel pump. Lots of diagnostic time went into that to figure it out. Just as Allanc said would lose pressure as it would get to operating temp.
 

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KOG
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Crank sensor on bell housing, cam sensor on front cover. Both are installed using card board shim to set depth, shim should come with sensor. But, as noted above, diagnose first. Of course, sometimes the best diagnostic tool is replacement---
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay so I retested my fuel pressure and when it dies it certainly drops. Even when it is running 'correctly', the best I can achieve is about 35psi at idle. This is lower than when I tested it in November. I saw a specification in a manual saying 48psi. Is 35 too low? Either way, I will be doing a fuel pump.
73339
 

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KOG
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The 3.3/3.8 also has a fuel pressure regulator on the front fuel rail. I've never had a problem with one of them, but ---
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The 3.3/3.8 also has a fuel pressure regulator on the front fuel rail. I've never had a problem with one of them, but ---
It has been changed.
 

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. . . Okay so I retested my fuel pressure and when it dies it certainly drops. Even when it is running 'correctly', the best I can achieve is about 35psi at idle. This is lower than when I tested it in November. I saw a specification in a manual saying 48psi. Is 35 too low? . . .
That is a 20% variance and most likely could lead to erratic running / stalling. Find the fuel return hose at the pressure regulator. With the engine running and fuel pressure gauge connected, protect the return hose line and squeeze gently with pliers? Can you force the fuel pressure to increase slightly in the system? If NO then the fuel pump is failing and cannot produce proper pressure.
 
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