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hey guys, been awhile since i posted.. been having a recurring oil leak and top leak.
been unable to track down either one.
any advice or tips?
another thought i had was, is there any comprehensive list of the cars that use my motor? (3.0 mits) not for a total engine swap since some wiring issues may pop up, i need it for tracking down replacement parts at the local junkyard. there havent been ANY lebarons there for almost 2 years straight lol

thanks a ton for the help! :)
 

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The 3.0 was used from 1988 through the late 90's in a number of Mopar vehicles. Other than the LeBaron's, it was used in Spirits, Acclaims, Sundances, Shadows with the V6 as well as the minivans through this period. If you're looking to swap engines keep in mind that the ful injection systems changed around 1992 from batch fired to SMPI. This think either 92 or 93 was the change over year. Not only the injectors themselves changed but so did the wiring and the computer. I also think 1992 was the year that the valve guides were improved with retaining circlips added to keep the guides from dropping into the heads. More accurate dates can be found elsewhere here in the 3.0 pages.
Engine oil leaks are typically from the valve covers, cam end plugs and seals and the rear main and front crank seals. You'll need to clean things down to determine where the leak originates. You can also get loil eaks from the power steering pump, it's lines and the pressure switch in the high pressure power steering line.

You didn't mention if the top was leaking water or oil from the hydraulic mechanism. If you're getting water in the car then it can come from a number of different areas. Water leaks can occur at the top front corners where the windsheild pillars, the door glass and top meet and from the joint and gap in the weatherstrip at the top rail hinge point above the door windows. Keep in mimd too that if the top is old it may have likely shrunk at the sides over the doors which exposes the roof rail weatherstrip and the joint gap. A good top will extend far enough over the weatherstrip to cover these areas so your leak may be top related. If the sides edge(s) of the top that runs along the side window tops is curved upward in a gentle arc then the top has shrunk. This edge should be straight and parallel and just below with the window top edges where the glass meets the roof rail weatherstrip.

If all this checks out OK and you're getting water in the front or rear floor wheel wells then check for the cowl drains to be clogged. There are large drain openings in the vertical part of the door jambs in the hinge area. These should be clear but they very well may be clogged with leaves and debris. This causes water to back up in the windsheild plenum and to leak into the footwells. You can feel into these openings, which are about the size of a business cards, to see if they're obstructed. There are two openings on each side. If they're clogged then you'll want to pull out the black plastic plenum cover at the base of the windsheild and you'll need to detach and preferably remove, the black plastic wheel well liner. This will give you good access to the cowl drains and their related surround structure so you can flush them out throughly. You'll need an extended out coat hanger or something similar and a garden hose to get these areas throughly cleaned out.
 
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