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It's on the transmission.
 
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Discussion Starter #23
So after driving her to and from work...grand total of miles under 200...she is dead in the parking lot. Turning over but I sprayed starting fluid and it did nothing. Has to be spark right?
 

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Maybe. Could be timing belt.
 

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I agree with Bob. You can remove a small cover on the side of the timing belt cover from which part of the top sprocket is visible. You'll need a helper. Have someone crank the engine and if the sprocket doesn't move, the belt is broken.
 

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It’s a V6, right? Pop the distributor cap off and see if the rotor spins.
 

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Bad (intermittent?) ASD relay? My old Dakota died, I left it set and it then started right up. Next time it happened I swapped the A/C and ASD relay and it started right up and never failed again. Until it got hot and I tried to use the A/C. Then I had to get a new relay so I could have A/C.
 
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Discussion Starter #29
Ok now my left blinker light stays on and my heater core just died lol. When it rains it pours.
Does the light mean a bulb is burnt out somewhere?
Looks like another Saturday filled with antifreeze for me. Good thing I live in the desert.
 

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When a bulb is out, the lights either won’t flash or flash really fast depending on design. As long as one side works correctly, the switch and flasher are OK. It’s a builds or wiring on the one side. Also check for corrosion especially the socket.
 
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These did have rear socket poor ground issues that was in the socket itself. At the dealer, we could replace the ground terminal in the socket that contacted the shell of the bulb.
A test would be to use a jumper wire between ground and the bulb ground shell with the ign and blinker on. If it begins blinking and/or gets brighter, then the ground is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
All my lights work with the hazards on so does the rear and the dash light so I'm going to guess it's a stalk issue. What do you think?
 

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All my lights work with the hazards on so does the rear and the dash light so I'm going to guess it's a stalk issue. What do you think?
Not necessarily. The hazard flasher is not load dependent. The turn signal flasher is.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
So it's the turn signal and running light that isn't working. Checked the bulb and it looks new and unbroken. Darn it!!
 

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Discussion Starter #35

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The heater core for vehicles with or without A/C is the same part number. Three of the four choices mention that they are a replacement for the OEM or 'alternate' for Mopar part # 4462697. The foam seal that surrounds the core usually disintegrates upon removal, so you will want a new one of these.
You will also want to reclaim, evacuate and recharge the A/C refrigerant as part of the heater service. Is this still R-12?
Compare the old and new cores for the same dimensions before installation. I have had fitment and configuration issues with aftermarket heater cores in the past. An OEM part is your safest bet that this will go smoothly. Words like 'OE-style' or 'alternate part' bother me.
 

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I used the 2-inch core in both my 93 Daytona and 92 Dakota, where each had had a 1-inch factory core. It was just a little snug sliding into place, but the 2-inch core puts out a LOT more heat. I would not hesitate to go with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Why do you have to evacuate the freon? My vw said the same thing but i was able to not open anything that discharged the system. Juat took careful hands.
 

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Why do you have to evacuate the freon? My vw said the same thing but i was able to not open anything that discharged the system. Juat took careful hands.
You have to remove the heater box from the car to open it up and get to the heater core. You can't do this without disconnecting the A/C.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Update.
My reverse lights work and I did nothing to correct them. Odd

So I'm going to replace my transmission solenoid but my Chilton says nothing about it at all. I can't find it anywhere but I'm guessing that I disconnect the battery before hand right? Does that reset the computer or do I still need to have someone?
 
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