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92 Sundance enginge stalls

3205 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Yesidoknow
I hope this is the right place for this.

I have a 92 sundance, That I've replaced the timing belt,ignition coil, and camshaft on. And as of right now, putting it in gear, drive or reverse, causes it to stall and die. We thought the timing was off, so we tried adjusting that, but nothing.

It idles fine in neutral and park. and dies almost instantly when put in gear. I'm at a complete lost as to what the issue is, and would appreciate any help or direction someone can give me.
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Welcome to Allpar.

How did it run before all this work? Did the stalling begin right after?

First step is to check for fault codes:

There can be many causes of this stalling. Often it's a vacuum leak, from a hose either cracked or not hooked up correctly.

When you set the ignition timing, did you unplug the coolant temperature sensor during the adjustment? That's mandatory and you will get an incorrect setting if you didn't.

When you replaced the timing belt, are you sure that you indexed the crankshaft, camshaft and intermediate shaft pulleys all correctly? Is there anything else that you touched during this repair?
Agree. The coolant temp sensor to the PCM is the 2-wire sensor at the thermostat housing and must be unplugged while setting timing. It will turn on the 'Ck eng' light, but the code can be erased by disconnecting the battery after the timing procedure is completed.
The single (violet) wire temp sensor near the #1 plug is for the dash temp gauge only.
If nothing can be found with the way the engine is running, then the transaxle lock-up torque converter clutch (TCC) may be staying on hydraulically. Unplugging the TCC electrically by the 2-wire plug next to the dipstick may make no difference if the problem is the TCC staying engaged hydraulically from an internal transaxle leak or TCC venting valve restriction at the valve body.
The TCC solenoid gasket on the valve body has a screen to trap debris. If this screen plugs up then the TCC can't vent pressure and it will stay engaged and will cause a stall when put in gear. Or if you are driving, it may lug the engine down to a stall when coming to a stop unless you slip it into neutral.
I have fixed these by simply cleaning the screen, but this may be temporary as the debris is probably clutch lining material and it will accumulate again. This probably means that the transaxle will need a rebuild, cooler flush and reman t/conv soon.
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It ran fine until we changed the timing belt the first time, No stalling, no misses. The belt was missing teeth and wouldn't spin the motor, so we replaced it. The new belt caused to much tension on the cam shaft causing it to snap near the gear, and that would be the second timing belt.

After that, it would stall while slowing down, so we thought we were a tooth or two off, removed and adjusted the timing belt for a third time which didn't make a difference, From what I can tell, the alignment was correct, but they give you little to know direction with the timing marks they use.

We then replaced the ignition coil because the car lost all fire, and also the distributor to replace the sensor inside. I had no idea about the coolant sensor, so I will try that this week.

I've also looked at the TCC, but have found no diagram on where it's located, it seemed to fit all of the symptoms though.

Thank you both for replying, Hopefully, I can get the car up and running sometime soon.

EDIT, no fault codes BTW, I'm not sure if thats because the battery has been unplugged while replacing the timing belt or not though.
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Timing belt tension is adjustable. Why was it too tight? The 2.2L belt is slightly shorter than the 2.5L belt. Were you given the wrong one?
The camshaft had a hairline crack in it. Never would have noticed it otherwise. I have a 2.2.
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