[Slamere1971]

So I did a timing belt in this 93 acclaim 2.5l now no start, changed plugs wires cap rotor coil and still nothing. All timing marks line up and timing is set to spec. It's getting fuel and compression and spark, what else could it be? Possible flooding issue as well.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Welcome to Allpar. If it has flooded with fuel, that has to be addressed first. Remove the fuel pump or ASD relay and the spark plugs. By cranking the engine it should expel some fuel out of the cylinders. At the same time, check for spark from the coil wire ( be extremely careful here with raw gas or fumes around a spark as it could ignite-keep the two away from each other). Wet plugs won't fire.
While the plugs are still out to dry the engine, set the crankshaft to TDC at either the front mark or the 0 degree mark at the bell-housing window.
Make sure that the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 plug terminal or just a little bit before it (BTDC). It spins clockwise.
Make sure that the oval cam sprocket hole is pointing up through the centerline of the engine, which is tilted slightly rearward. Not straight up vertical.
Make sure that all electrical connectors are all plugged in, Sometimes it is easy to unplug something unknowingly while working on something else.
A service manual with pictures is useful if you have any questions about how things should look when put back together.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Did the belt break, or is this proactive replacement?

I'm betting you're off 180 degrees on either the cam or intermediate shaft.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/timing-belt-22.html

 

[Slamere1971]

Bob- it was proactive, the water pump went so replaced belt at that time, the timing was set and when I started it it ran but ran rough, so I checked the timing marks and it was off a tooth or two. Reset the marks and checked the rotor placement and the TDC window on the bell housing, all lined up perfect. Started the car it ran good for a few seconds then started running the same as before, turned it off and checked the marks, jumped a tooth again, then replaced the tensioner, lined all marks again, turned it over now no start, has spark and a lot of fuel, I replaced plugs wires coil cap rotor, all were NEVER replaced (136k). I later found out that my helper( my 15 year old brother left the key on for about an hour, not really his fault as there is no ingnition switch. Not my car by the way,lol.) like I said it seems to have too much fuel in it, even tried starting fluid. I've done about 20 timing belts on the 2.2/2.5 and never had a problem. The cars in mint condition, grandma owned for 18years now a 22 year old has it and its not getting the right maintance. It's too nice to junk if you know what I mean. Also what's that black thing in the distributor under the rotor with the wire, could this cause this? And the spark is orange not blue/ white

 

[Doug D]

Also what's that black thing in the distributor under the rotor with the wire

That is the Hall Effect. They are known to go bad at times. Easy to replace - about $30 at Advance Auto. Would not hurt to replace it.

 

[Slamere1971]

Thanks Doug, could that be the problem?

 

[Bob Lincoln]

"checked the rotor placement and the TDC window on the bell housing, all lined up perfect."

Does this mean you set the ignition timing at TDC instead of 12 BTDC? Did you set the ignition timing to the factory spec with the CTS unplugged?

Orange spark may mean that you wore the battery down with the key on.

 

[Doug D]

Thanks Doug, could that be the problem?

I don't think so. Like Bob, I'm more apt to think it is how you set the timing. Make sure you are setting the timing with the CTS disconnected and at 12 BTDC. Disconnecting the CTS will cause the CEL to come on. The CTS has to be disconnected while setting the timing otherwise it will jump all over the place.

Like I said it won't hurt to replace the HEP. At least you'll know it is good and won't be a potential source of the starting issue.

Might want to make sure the battery is at a full charge. A weak battery may still turn the engine over but have insufficient spark to start.

 

[B10alia]

You can't flood one of these cars by leaving the ignition switch on-- the computer only runs the pump for a second or two the first two key cycles. The injector is fired by a signal from that black thing (the Hall effect sensor), which also controls the ignition. If you have spark and fuel, I would say that's not your issue. I'm leaning towards the battery like Bob. Throw it on a charger or try jumping the car and see what you can get. Either way, you may be looking at a new battery sometime in the near future. Car batteries can be damaged internally by deep discharge, so if it's been discharged before (like a couple times leaving the lights on overnight), this could have been the end of the line for it.