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Discussion Starter #41
i'm close. Last night I re-installed the parking brake cables in the console - what a bear that was! Besides fighting the cable tension and slicing my hands on the sheet metal, I had to lift the rear seat to get the carpet and metal hump out, and had to unbolt the seat to get the front edge to clip back in. The interior is all back in place now.

At this point all I have to do is install the rear brake drum hardware, adjust and bleed the brakes, and put the wheels back on. I expect that after work I will at least get the drum hardware on, and then another hour to bleed and get the car wheels-down. So far so good. From here it's chores that I've done many times with no trouble.

Glad you gave me the extra hardware. I installed the left jounce bumper; used the parking brake cables because there was no rust and the springs at the drum end are intact; and used a wheel cylinder because the bolts holding one of mine to my old axle were rounded off and would not remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
FIXED. Took two separate 5-mile test drives last night. Took it to work this morning. Rides and handles great. I wasn't sure if I had bled the brakes enough, but I realized that I was used to the Turbo's excellent brakes after 3 weeks, and the gen 3 cars that I have owned, even since new, never had as much stopping power as other Daytonas or most cars. Final cost, under $350.
 

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Great news, Bob. I'm happy to see you're back on the road and ready for another 200,000 miles.
 

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There ya go, not so serious after all.... :runaway:

Glad to see another one still rulin' the roads.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Well, a problem has surfaced. Not a showstopper.

The axle tube that goes inside the inverted U-channel has broken free at both ends and rattles LOUDLY. Very LOUDLY.

Options are to have it welded while in place (difficult access, and weld may break again); Remove axle for better access and have it welded (lots of work and weld may break again); or secure the tube with adhesive.

I decided tonight that I'm going to fill all around both ends of the tube inside the U-channel with a tube of Liquid Nails on each side. Fill it completely and let it harden as solid as a brick so the tube can't move or rattle.

Other than that, it's been handling and riding just beautifully. But the rattle is so loud it can be heard by the neighbors as I drive down the street.
 

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Sorry to hear that setback after all that work. But I think your plan to deal with that tube is a good one.
 

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Bob, Sorry to hear about the tube noise. I honestly didn't even think to check the tube as the last time I drove the car I never heard any racket. But that was about five years ago or more. I would think that with the car on a rack that welding would be quick and easy. Let me know how you make out.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
No problem, I found it slightly loose when painting it, and opted not to take the time to weld it when it was off the car, as the old one was loose on one end and didn't make any noise. And this only started today. Should be an easy fix. It's still solid and stable.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
After 5 days and mostly rainy, cool weather, the Liquid Nails had not fully cured. Drove it, was fine for a day and then it started rattlling badly on the slightest road imperfection. Silent on smooth surfaces. Going to have it tack-welded sometime later this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Yep, for sure. Already talked to a body shop, the owner will call me when his lift is available, and it will be a fairly quick job some night after work this week. Today it did not rattle at all. I'm thinking when they looked at it Saturday, they rotated the bar and it happened to settle into its original position where the rusted edges grip it just right - for the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Had it welded back in June for $40, and it was silent until this week. Welds broke, rattle is back. Ideally, I'd love to find an epoxy that I could inject around where the bar goes into the axle flange. Welding will just break again. I just want to muffle the sound. Any ideas? (Besides turning the radio up.)
 

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Get some windshield urethane. Don't use it directly on the end but about 4 inches from the end. Support the piece to be secured and using some tape, wrap around the area to form a mold. Then inject from both sides top and bottom. Heat the tube (about $13 at the parts store) in some 'hot' water for about 20 minutes to soften and get it to flow better.

Of course you will want to clean the area as much as you can before doing this. Once it's done and cured get some hose clamps and wrap the area with a few hose clamps just in case it decides to loosen over time.

In this way the weld will not be required but might be a good idea just in case, and it will no longer make noise. Total time about 24 hours for the total curing, less is probable. Total cost without welding, less than $15.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Bob, I used Liquid Nails on it last time, before taking it in for welding. I had already installed the axle (would have been easier on the ground, upside down, to fill the space). Liquid Nails is amazingly strong. I've used it to glue furring strips to my basement walls, which support fully loaded pegboards that hold power tools and other heavy weight. Thin, wide beads such as I used were able to dry in 24 hours, solid. However, I did the tape mold as you describe, and filled the space with Liquid Nails on the axle, and 5 days later it had only partially cured - most of it was still like right out of the tube. That's because it was so thick and deep a cavity to fill. If it had hardened, that bar would not have moved. I did it about a foot in from each end. The welder ripped it all out easily before welding.

I see two choices: Apply the Liquid Nails again in thinner, multiple layers so it will cure quickly, or do what people on other forums have done: fill the space with Great Stuff insulating foam. At least two people that I read of this morning had done that and eliminated the noise completely. And Great Stuff cures very quickly, although messy. Either way, I use duct tape across the bottom of the axle to act as a mold, with something underneath to catch drippings.

The rattle is so bad, it's easily heard inside and outside the car, sounds like it's really going to fall apart. Yet it's safe. I will not try welding again, even from the other side. That involves stripping the whole wheel off each side, including the brake lines, unbolting the spindle to weld, and re-assembling and bleeding the brakes. I'm not willing to do that.
 

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What kind of welding process are you using? MIG will not get enough penetration in this case. TIG should give better results.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I'm not welding at all - I don't know how. I took it to a body shop that has always done great work for me. I"m going to say it was MIG welding, as it automatically fed the filler metal past the electrode. It was gasless, which supposedly has better penetration that using gas. But I've read that others have had welds on this bar fail to hold up, even with TIG welding.
 

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Probably flux core arc weld. You will get better penetration than MIG, it develops more heat, but also generates slag which can make a weld brittle. TIG is very clean and since you don't have a consumable electrode you can get really good penetration. You can more easily select an appropriate filler rod with TIG.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Well, this car realistically only has a few years left. The front face of the rear crossmember is rotted enough that I can stick two hands in, and the rear panel behind the spare tire well, in front of the bumper, can be bent like putty. Yes, they can be fixed, but where does it end? I spent $3,200 having the inner and outer rockers and rear quarters and floorpan replaced 4 years ago, with sandblasting, epoxy paint and Ziebarting. Diminishing returns. I'm going to fill in between the axle and the bar with either Great Stuff foam or Liquid Nails. It's already safe and handles fine, now it just has to be quiet.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Grabbed the bar this morning and it rattled badly. Filled the ends with Great Stuff foam and about 7 hours later, it is almost cured and the bar doesn't move. Tomorrow will tell whether it's quiet and if it holds up to our bumpy roads and RR crossings here.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
So far so good. It was silent on the 38-mile ride to work, which has some serious road defects. We'll see how long it lasts.
 
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