[dartmanscott]

I recently converted the wife's 93 Imperial over from the Bendix ABS 10 braking system to the standard braking system. The mechanical conversion went well, however, I need to know how to correctly connect the proportioning valve so that the brake light in the dash goes off (it is staying on all the time), but will come on should there be a problem. As I said, this is the wife's car (it's her baby, and she does NOT want to give it up), so pulling the bulb out of the dash is not a good option for me. I want the warning light to work to alert us if there is a problem. Any help? Thanks.

 

[chuzz]

I've never done anything like that, but did you also swap the proportiong valve? Perhaps that's why, if not.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Welcome to Allpar. Are you referring the yellow ABS light or the red BRAKE light? The cluster is probably looking for the ABS module that is no longer there? I don't know if the cluster itself is different on an ABS car compared to a non-ABS car.
The standard brake master cylinder used a fluid level sensor who's connector may or may not be in the wiring harness that you now have.
Using a service manual with wiring diagrams, find the BRAKE lamp driver wire from the ABS module and use it for the valve switch? When this warning lamp is grounded, it should come on.
You might get away with deleting ABS easier on a Dynasty, but all Imperials had ABS.

 

[dartmanscott]

I've never done anything like that, but did you also swap the proportiong valve? Perhaps that's why, if not.

Thanks for replying chuzz. Yes, i did swap in the proportioning valve, and it is that wire that I'm trying to find the right home for to make the brake/warning light in the dash work the way it is supposed to. I did remove the ABS bulb from the instrument cluster since the abs system is no longer there.

 

[dartmanscott]

Welcome to Allpar. Are you referring the yellow ABS light or the red BRAKE light? The cluster is probably looking for the ABS module that is no longer there? I don't know if the cluster itself is different on an ABS car compared to a non-ABS car.
The standard brake master cylinder used a fluid level sensor who's connector may or may not be in the wiring harness that you now have.
Using a service manual with wiring diagrams, find the BRAKE lamp driver wire from the ABS module and use it for the valve switch? When this warning lamp is grounded, it should come on.
You might get away with deleting ABS easier on a Dynasty, but all Imperials had ABS.

Thank you also for replying ImperialCrown. I did remove the ABS bulb from the instrument cluster since it is no longer there. It is the red Brake/Warning light that I'm trying to get to function properly. So far, I have not found a schematic detailed enough to trace back which wire in the ABS system to connect the proportioning valve wire to to indicate a low brake pressure situation. I have not disconnected the ABS computer yet. I figured the ABS system had to have a connection that indicated a "low pressure" situation.

 

[ImperialCrown]

I believe that the ABS module also has a malfunction 'failsafe' mode, where if it detects an open yellow ABS bulb circuit it will keep the red BRAKE lamp on as a warning. The ABS module has to fully come out of the system and the wiring completed for a conventional non-ABS brake system.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-Chrysler-FWD-Wiring-Diagrams-Service-Manual-/120726918388

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

On the left side inner fender in front of the battery, behind the headlights, you should find two relays. Unplug them. One's the warning light relay, the other is the ABS system relay.

Then, wire your prop valve wire to the gray/black wire at the black ABS pump connector.

That should do it. I had to do this when my Imperial came back from Vancouver with me. The conversion had been done for me up to the wiring, but to pass safety I had to get the warning light wired up properly.

 

[dartmanscott]

On the left side inner fender in front of the battery, behind the headlights, you should find two relays. Unplug them. One's the warning light relay, the other is the ABS system relay.

Then, wire your prop valve wire to the gray/black wire at the black ABS pump connector.

That should do it. I had to do this when my Imperial came back from Vancouver with me. The conversion had been done for me up to the wiring, but to pass safety I had to get the warning light wired up properly.

Thanks man. I'll have to give that a try this week. If this will fix it, you'll have no idea how much I appreciate this info.

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

Should mention - I did not have to remove the ABS module. I did it anyway, but that's only because I needed to hack the connector to install a non-ABS brake fluid level sensor for the EVIC. Also figured since the ABS was gone, no reason to keep an extra module in there.

Incidentally, the module is on the battery support bracket under the battery in just about the least accessible place under the hood Chrysler could think of.