[dartmanscott]

Converted wife's car from ABS 10 system to conventional braking system. Having 2 problems.

First, after bleeding brakes, have a good firm brake pedal, right up at the top. After starting the car and getting vaccuum to the brake booster, the pedal goes "soft." Have bled and re-bled, have same results.

Second, don't know which wire to connect the proportioning valve to to make the red brake warning light work the way it is supposed to. Being disconnnected, the warning light is staying on all the time.

Any help? Thanks!

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

The brake light won't turn off until you either unplug those relays I mentioned in your other thread, and/or you remove the ABS computer. As long as the ABS computer thinks there's a problem, it'll have that warning light relay turn the red light on.

I believe I also indicated the proper wire to use for the proportioning valve. I'm not guessing, there... I have full wiring diagrams

I can probably get pictures tomorrow if needed.

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

Got some pictures for you this morning:



The red quicksplice connector marks the wire to connect the warning switch to. 1993 and 1992 use the same system, so this is where you'd connect it to as well.



Note the two ABS relays way up in the front left corner of the engine bay... the frontmost one is the warning light relay. That's the one that turns on the red light when the ABS computer notices something's amiss. On my car, that's the only one I've disconnected... the other relay can be left plugged in.

Again, 1993 and 1992 are identical in ABS relay placement, because it's the exact same Bendix system. You should be good to go once that front relay is unplugged.

Edit - apparently five years is too long for my memory. I was looking at the wiring diagrams again, and that relay is only for the ABS warning light... it's the module itself turning the red one on. You should be able to deal with this merely by pulling the ABS fuse in the power distribution center, or removing the module entirely. It's under the battery bolted to the side of the battery tray bracket. You can only access it from underneath.

 

[dartmanscott]

Got some pictures for you this morning:



The red quicksplice connector marks the wire to connect the warning switch to. 1993 and 1992 use the same system, so this is where you'd connect it to as well.



Note the two ABS relays way up in the front left corner of the engine bay... the frontmost one is the warning light relay. That's the one that turns on the red light when the ABS computer notices something's amiss. On my car, that's the only one I've disconnected... the other relay can be left plugged in.

Again, 1993 and 1992 are identical in ABS relay placement, because it's the exact same Bendix system. You should be good to go once that front relay is unplugged.

Edit - apparently five years is too long for my memory. I was looking at the wiring diagrams again, and that relay is only for the ABS warning light... it's the module itself turning the red one on. You should be able to deal with this merely by pulling the ABS fuse in the power distribution center, or removing the module entirely. It's under the battery bolted to the side of the battery tray bracket. You can only access it from underneath.

Thanks again for all of your efforts, Oklahoma Wolf. I tried what you mentioned before, but I must have missed something small, because my efforts weren't successful. You couldn't get any plainer than what you've gotten here, so surely I can get it right this time! Thanks again!

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

Yeah, as mentioned in my edit, that warning light relay is only for the ABS light... you pull that one if you don't want to take the bulb out of the cluster. I'd forgotten that little point.

Turning off the red light requires actually removing power to the ABS module. The other relay may do that, but on my car I just pulled the ABS fuse. And then the module itself, but only because I didn't want something on the car that had no function anymore.