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Discussion Starter #21
I spray painted it. Works just as well. I drove it to work today with no issues. I guess time will tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well, so much for being fixed. It wouldn't start tonight. I had to pick my daughter up from work. I opened the hood and had her turn the key to on. I had my hand on the ASD relay and did not hear or feel it click. It was too late and cold to fool with it. Does the power to activate the relay come from the computer or ignition switch ? I will try to see if the wire to the coil on the relay is getting power. Weather permitting, I will go to town and fool with it tomorrow. My problem is that when I start diagnosing it will start and run. I kind of hope it stays broke so I can figure it out.
 

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The (+) side of the relay coil and contact should be powered all the time (fused battery voltage). The PCM provides a ground to turn on the relay coil.
Diagnosing while the issue is present is best, if possible. In some intermittent cases, I have wired in 12 volt peanut bulbs to watch for the time when one doesn't light to help lead me to the problem.
Follow these 2.2L/2.5L EFI minivan wiring diagrams, unless you have the service manual for the car. 'Typical' wiring diagram circuits with routing and wire colors may be found here (fig.34):
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528021617b
 

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Discussion Starter #25
It wouldn't start. I checked for power at the relay coil and there is none. At least now I have a starting point. Im going to have it towed home so I can work on it in a warm garage.
 

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A 1994 AA body probably still uses fusible links. With your volt meter connected to the "always hot" side of the relay coil, try moving the wiring bundle containing the fusible links, located next to the driver's side to see if you can re-establish 12 volts on that relay coil.

Best I remember, the 12 volts for the ASD relay coil is a non-switched, always hot condition, but the voltage for the fuel pump relay may be switched through the ignition switch (run position).. Try to get your hands on a 94 wiring schematic or a FSM. There were some changes over the years so my information may not be accurate.

The lack of 12 volts that you discovered is a huge step toward figuring this out.
 

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The 12V to the coil side of the ASD relay comes through the ignition switch, not direct from the battery.
The 12V on the load side of the ASD relay comes from the battery.
I'd be surprised if a 1994 had fusible links. Most cars had fuses and relays in a power distribution center box underhood by then.
 

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I know my '90 Acclaim had fusible links and pretty sure my '92 did too. Not sure about the '94's, but I'd be surprised if they didn't. These vehicles didn't change that much during their short production run ('89 - '95).
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Yes, it Has many fusable links. Looking at the diagrams on Autozone's web site, power to the relay coil comes from the ignition switch. I guess now I need to figure out if it's the switch or the fusable links feeding the switch. Once again it started after I got it in the garage.
 

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The AA used fusible links up until the end of production. I own one of the last Spirits built, and she's got fusible links. No relay center, either. They're all over the place in these cars.
I would be tempted to look at the switch over fusible links-- a fusible link is essentially a fuse built into the circuit and is typically either blown or not blown. Switches are much more likely to go intermittent.
 

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The AA used fusible links up until the end of production. I own one of the last Spirits built, and she's got fusible links. No relay center, either. They're all over the place in these cars.
I would be tempted to look at the switch over fusible links-- a fusible link is essentially a fuse built into the circuit and is typically either blown or not blown. Switches are much more likely to go intermittent.
I was thinking along the same lines with a dirty contact in the switch, but you think with several attempts of moving the key back and forth that the contact would make up once in a while. Even hitting the column might help.

I believe the fusible links are a mechanical crimp into the adjoining wires and I have heard of corrosion and intermittants in that area causing the kind of problem the OP is experiencing. A no start in damp conditions could also be a clue. It could be either, but keeping a voltmeter connected while moving things around might help identify the location of the fault.

Also, I've seen burned wire ends on the spade lug crimps right at the ignition switch on a lot of AA and AP body styles (even in the junkyard).
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Sounds like I need to check the wiring at the switch also. I'm not oppoosed to buying a new switch. It's only $20 on rockauto.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Another update. I replaced the fusible link to the asd circuit and replaced the ignition switch. The ignition contacts were a little worn but I don't think bad enough to cause a problem. I replaced the cap, rotor and ignition wires. The car started every time for at least a month until last week. Back to square one again. I'm starting to think it's the computer. The asd and fuel pump relay test ok. The pump harness at the tank has a good ground. If I remove the pump relay and jumper the connector, the pump runs. It would seem that computer doesn't always send the signal to activate the asd and pump relay. I have removed the computer connector and the pins still have the factory grease on them. No corrosion at all. I may try to find a junkyard computer. I have a U-pull it junkyard near me. I don't really think there is much left to check. The only wire corrosion I have ever found was the ground on the fenderwell under the battery.
 

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Check the bulkhead connector, especially if you've ever disturbed it. The computer is an ABSOLUTE last resort. The computers in these cars rarely actually fail, and I would think that a failed computer would fail under the same circumstances, every time.

Case in point: I disconnected the bulkhead connector over the summer to try and install my Traveler. When I reconnected it, I didn't tighten the screw enough and it caused the connection at the fuel pump to go intermittent. I thought it was the fuel pump and replaced it. That worked fine for about a week until the connector moved ever so slightly and started causing the pump to cut out again. This made me think "relay", which I replaced. That did nothing. I was fully prepared to tear the entire front end of the car apart looking for the wiring break before it dawned on me to check the bulkhead disconnect. Tightening that one screw could have saved me a couple hundred bucks and weeks of frustration.
 

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Another member just the other day resolved an intermittent ASD relay problem by finding a bad connection to the relay. Look closely at the wiring to the socket terminals. Wiggle them as someone tries the key.
 

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And probed and visually examined both sides of the computer harness connection, mated and unmated?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Yes, I examined the computer harness connection but I did not probe it. I borrowed The Hook (by Power Probe) from a friend and thought about probing it, but I need to study the manual a little more. I don't want to fry the computer accidentally. It's a great tool. I used it to check the relays and ground connections. It will detect if a wire is power or ground and you can use it to apply power or ground to a circuit and check resistance and continuity.
 

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I know this may seem like a shot in the dark but have you checked the coil? It could have a hairline crack in it that sometimes shows up causing the no start condition.
 
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