Yeah, no ABS, Lebarons never had them all the way through production to my knowledge.Do you have ABS? If so, that is just a block that takes the place of the proportioning valve so the same brake lines can be used from there on. I haven't been able to locate this block.
If there's no ABS, then that is the proportioning valve assembly.
Just removed the master cylinder and air filter hoses, which permits a ton more access down below. I can get a 1/2" box end wrench around the fittings that hold in the lines that run to the back brakes, but I can't loosen them yet. I just put some PB blaster on them and are going to let them sit overnight. If I'm unable to remove them from the proportioning valve without destroying them I may just cut the lines and then try to get a 6 point socket around them. The fittings can be replaced, I'm more worried about preserving the proportioning valve. Auto parts stores just don't stock the things for some model cars for some reason.That is the proportioning valve, and yes, lines run to each wheel from there. Good time to change the flex hoses, too, as they often fail internally and act as a check valve, making the brakes slow to release. This is often misdiagnosed as stuck calipers.
John,The coiled stuff is not too bad to work with since it is a bit softer than the OEM steel. It will still kink and you need to get a tubing bender and take your time matching up the original bends. You won't get a picture perfect OEM look on your long straight runs, but it will be functional. Be sure to protect the lines from any rubbing or possible movement on adjacent objects (i.e. frame, crossmembers, etc).
For your proportioning valve, I'd recommend you get tubing wrenches to loosen those flare nuts, or if you are cutting the line off, be sure your box wrench is a 6 point. 12 point wrenches will surely round the flats on those nuts.
Yeah, don't really care at this point if the line snaps, just would be favorable if the fittings can be saved. That way I don't have to pull the entire proportioning valve to take up to the shop for an accurate sizing for a newer fitting.On mine, the fittings are 7/16", not 1/2". You might want to check that. I replaced the left front rigid line, and I had to destroy it to get it off. The proportioning valve was bolted to the frame with one bolt, and the fitting was so tight, I was afraid I'd break the mounting bolt. So I put a tubing wrench on it, facing upright in the plane of the valve, and then put a 15" copper pipe over the wrench as a breaker bar. The fitting turned, but the line turned with it and snapped immediately. So plan on replacing it all.
Make sure the flaring kit is a good quality one like what Sears carries, and not the cheapo $20 to $30 ones. They slip and slide, and you can't get a straight flare. And make sure it's a double flare. The guy at NAPA didn't know what a double flare was. He thought I said bubble flare and tried to sell me metric tubing.
Valiant...won't be the first time I've been wrong, every Lebaron I've ever looked at, driven or owned made from 93-95 didn't have ABS. I'd love to see a picture of the system just so I can see the differences in the engine compartment.That's rather interesting as my 1994 LeBaron had ABS
Just to be sure, you are removing the entire hub from the axle stub right? That means taking the center cotter pin/nut off and sliding it off by the bearings. The drum is a hard press fit to the hub. You won't get the drum off the studs if the entire hub has not been removed first. After the assembly is off, you can press the drum (or pound it) off the hub.Well, still stuck. Trying to remove the brake drums to assess the extent of what I need to replace. I'm quite frankly astonished at the way Mopar designed the rear brake drums on this car, they fit inside the backing plate via a groove rather than over it. And these drums are stuck. Did a double soak of PB Blaster, tried hitting it from the front with a ball pean for awhile to knock it loose.
No go. Started using a good length breaker bar, bent the tang back a little on the backing plate so I could get behind the drum (at this point I don't care about the drum, I'll replace it if I have to), and just began prying on it hard, then hitting/rotating the drum from behind. The studs seem to be loose but the center just won't budge.
I know Napa has a specialty heavy duty tool to remove drums, but it's also $200. Trying to avoid the investment right now, got a vacation coming up. If I have to spend it I have to, just would prefer not to.
I've removed many brake drums on many cars, including another lebaron of the same year, but this one is definitely the toughest I've come across in 20 years, not responding to an old fashioned beating.
Any other suggestions welcome.
It's admittedly been a decade since I rebuilt the rear brakes on my other '94. Man I feel stupid. Will report back once I've pulled the drums off.Good point. And if a bearing started to weld itself to the spindle, it could be difficult to remove the hub.
Stuck drums are usually because the drum is worn too thin from neglect, and the shoes have created a lip on the drum that catches on the shoes.