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Discussion Starter #1
Signel lights just never seem to work for me. It's usually a bulb problem in the back, but thats been fine since I've replaced the bulb housing.

-ALL lights work.
-Flasher unit is new
-Headlights work

Now to the problem:

The passenger side lights do not flash, the stay on. It get's better than this: they come on with the headlights and stay on! But when the headlights are on and you use the passengers side turn signel: they GO OFF! Gah!

It must be the stalk, and spraying it with craig deoxit did not help. Is there a guide to tearing one of these off and possibly fixing it? Or will this take a trip to the local pick and pull?
 

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Current is being back-fed into the right turn signal circuit by a possible bad ground? Do the headlamp and turn signal grounds tie in at the same point, like on the upper radiator support panel or right inner fender panel?
If 2 terminals are being held down by the ground screw, try loosening and retightening the screw.
The rear bulb sockets were a common bad ground problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
StarFire_MK2 said:
Monomer: IC helped me with a similar problem on my Sundance, and it was indeed the grounds on my tail lights causing similar problems.
Grounds in the back are fine. New sockets and wire. It;s just odd one is working, usually with one out it'd not work at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ImperialCrown said:
Current is being back-fed into the right turn signal circuit by a possible bad ground? Do the headlamp and turn signal grounds tie in at the same point, like on the upper radiator support panel or right inner fender panel?
If 2 terminals are being held down by the ground screw, try loosening and retightening the screw.
The rear bulb sockets were a common bad ground problem.


You sir, I owe you a beer. Fixed with new crimp connectors and all is well.


Now to figure out why it's comsuming coolant and idles like crap. Still the best $500 car one could ask for!
 

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Good deal!
If there are no external coolant leaks, are there any bubbles in the coolant with the radiator cap off while idling? Beware of hot coolant when removing the cap.
Head gasket failures (combustion chamber-to-water jacket leak) were common and not difficult that difficult to replace. If the timing belt is old, that could be done at the same time.
The rough idle may be from that or an EFI, ignition or mechanical problem. PCV valves and the injector could also cause this. 1994 is OBD 1, but if you have access to a diagnostic scan tool and a technician, look under engine sensors/inputs/outputs for any values that might seem out of line.
 

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Monomer: It sounds like you're battling the same issues I went through on my Sundance in the last two years.

Coolant: This sounds like your next priority, or as IC said, you'll blow a headgasket and potentially need your head re machined. Do you hear bubbling in the reservoir tank when you shut the engine off? Have you checked all the hose-clamps for tightness and inspected the hoses for leaks?

Idle issues: what error codes is your computer throwing? Are you encountering any hot- or cold-restart problems? As IC suggested, check your PCV valve, as well as the PCV hose and the hose leading from the valve cover to the airbox. Make sure they aren't kinked and/or have sludge buildup in them. Pull and clean all the connectors to the various sensors on the throttlebody, and sparingly apply some dielectric grease to them. Check all the ground-straps too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
StarFire_MK2 said:
Monomer: It sounds like you're battling the same issues I went through on my Sundance in the last two years.

Coolant: This sounds like your next priority, or as IC said, you'll blow a headgasket and potentially need your head re machined. Do you hear bubbling in the reservoir tank when you shut the engine off? Have you checked all the hose-clamps for tightness and inspected the hoses for leaks?

Idle issues: what error codes is your computer throwing? Are you encountering any hot- or cold-restart problems? As IC suggested, check your PCV valve, as well as the PCV hose and the hose leading from the valve cover to the airbox. Make sure they aren't kinked and/or have sludge buildup in them. Pull and clean all the connectors to the various sensors on the throttlebody, and sparingly apply some dielectric grease to them. Check all the ground-straps too.
I've done one HG in it already, I'm not sure if it took properly. Looks as if it's pressurizing the coolant more than it should.

Stuff also done:
-Waterpump
-Timing belt
-Raidator (had a hole)
-ALL THE COOLANT HOSES (besides that one odd heater hose)
-"Custom" expansion tank (thought it was leaking/cracked)
-TPS (This was night and day difference, she drives now)
-PCV
-Vac system, all new lines
-MAP

It's shooting out a code for an IAC, next thing to check. Getting a coolant pressure tester and also check compression this week.
 

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For your iac code, check the wires running along the valve cover above the intake. I just had to repair all 4 wires on my 90 acclain last night as it was idling at 2000 rpm. Found all 4 wires melted together and shorting. also found the wires to the tb temp sensor melted, repaired those too.
 
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