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97 cirrus 2.5 stalling

12305 Views 79 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Rocky A
so I pick up this cirrus drove fine first day . Next day in the morning I turned it on . About a minute went by and it shut it self off . Thought maybe it sat awhile before I bought it . So drove it to work and with in 25 minutes came to a light and it shut off at the light .started right up . Still doing the same thing . Replaced the alternator because it failed voltage regulator. Swapped the auto shut off relay . Cleaned the throttle body and cleaned the iac . No change . No codes no lights on dash . Any ideas ?
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Battery terminal connectors clean and tight?
Yes new battery too
This might be an ignition problem. How does the coil look?
I looks good from what I can see .
I did noticed some odd self acceleration while I was leaving work . Pulled like I was pushing the gas down .
I know you said you cleaned the IAC, but you may want to test this further. Is the vehicle idling erratically? Is this vehicle equipped with cruise control by chance?
The idle is smooth only when you drive does it get low coming to a stop almost stalling or just stalling outright. In park it’s fine . As for cruise control. I not sure . I drove it for about 4 days . And haven’t explored the options yet . It’s parked till I can figure this issue out .
When you said that you cleaned the IAC, did you also thoroughly clean the housing where it resides?
Yes cleaned the whole throttle body new gasket as well
So I did a test on the tps to really see what’s going on . Showed 5 at rest and 7.7 with the acc on and 8.5 at idle. So Because I seen what I assume is low volts I put a spacer on the throttle cable and brought it up to 90v then when I started the car it went up to 1.02 . And a code came up as high idle. I did notice rough idle but a think that’s because I put a spacer . I removed it and it back to 8.5 . So far that’s what I got . Next is the crank sensor.
So I did a test on the tps to really see what’s going on . Showed 5 at rest and 7.7 with the acc on and 8.5 at idle. So Because I seen what I assume is low volts I put a spacer on the throttle cable and brought it up to 90v then when I started the car it went up to 1.02 . And a code came up as high idle. I did notice rough idle but a think that’s because I put a spacer . I removed it and it back to 8.5 . So far that’s what I got . Next is the crank sensor.
These readings are bogus. The TPS voltage is about 0.7 volts at idle, increasing linearly to about 4.0 volts at wide open throttle.
Oops that’s .77 rest . .85 at idle . And when wot it’s 3.75
So, a final test would be to read the voltage while sweeping the throttle through its range (with key on, engine off). If there are no unusual spikes along the way, the TPS is good.
Tested it as you said nice and smooth climb in voltage no hiccups .
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So far I have just replaced the iac and after 6 minutes it stalled in the drive way . After that once up to temp it’s fine ?
Also is it normal for this car to take a whale to warm up ?i notice that even after 10 it still was under temp
Now it’s good but bogged a bit at the stop light then I hit the gas it was fine again
mechanic says timing chain ?
Time for a new mechanic? It’s got a timing belt, not a timing chain. What makes the mechanic suspect the timing chain/belt?
Just the fact that is passed due . . He also said he Suspects the distributor.
My money is on the distributor. Since alot of you guys say it’s a huge issue with the stalling . Next to the crank sensor. And the car throws no codes , that’s annoying as hell by the way .
So got it back and it dose not stall when driving . But stalls in park . Also leaks water a lot can this be why it stalls ? Water leak
distributor rotor just the rotor
Map
iac
Tps
And crank sensor I believe.
Gotta check with the mechanic On that .
Not sure I did not do the work .
I had heard of a leak that is caused by a o ring around a sensor . That will need replacing over time . and that this leak can possibly cause issue due to it being wet .
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