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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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The coil is inside the distributor. The early Mitsubishi distributors were known for failure. It may not leave fault codes behind, but a good scan too can tell you whether the cam sensor or crank sensor signal is lost or missing while it's in no-start cranking. Diagnose first.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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The 2.5L is an interference engine with 4 valves per cylinder. The replacement interval is every 102K miles.
This is a belt that you do not want to see fail, but I doubt that is your stalling issue.

The 2.5L is a dual-poppet thermostat. If the coolant level is OK, I would replace the thermostat. I had to replace the one in mine because my heater was only lukewarm.
 
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Not everything will set a fault code. That's when a good scan tool and good detective work really help. Guessing can be more frustrating, expensive and lead you down the wrong diagnostic path.
 
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That is a fairly serious coolant leak and must be repaired. It probably isn't the cause of the stalling, but something is still wrong if it is stalling in Park.
What work was done to the car?
 

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Were the heater hose couplings disturbed when replacing the crank sensor? That may be the leak.
 

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The coolant leak looks bad enough to make the car not really driveable for any distance.
 
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This is the book for a 2000 LH, but the P0112 and P1496 "Possible Causes" and troubleshoot procedures on p. 69 & 247 would likely be the same. Wire colors may be different.
These 2 codes are probably related to a single problem. 4.8 v is low for a regulated 5 v supply. It is either being pulled down by a 'shorted' sensor or wiring problem or the internal PCM regulated voltage supply is failing.
I have disconnected sensors one by one while watching the voltage to see if it rises when one particular sensor is disconnected in order to find the culprit.

 
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Same fault codes also?
 

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Check the A/C pressure transducer. If the PCM can't tell the discharge pressure it may default the cooling fans to 'on' and disable the compressor clutch.
It is on the 5 volt sensor line and may be what is pulling the line down?
See the 5 volt tree and disconnect each sensor until the voltage jumps to 5, then you have found the culprit.
The cam (dist) and crank sensors run on 8 volts. See attached:
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Unplug the connector from the PCM. Unplug all 4 sensors. That 5v wire should now read Infinite ohms to ground as it is disconnected from everything.
If it is open to ground and you are still seeing 4.85 volts, it sure sounds like a failing PCM. That is too low.
The regulated 5v sensor supply line should read 5v, give or take about a tenth of a volt.
 
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You would be able to do continuity (ohms) checks with that connector unplugged, not voltage checks. As long as that wire reads 'open' to ground with all possible loads disconnected, it should read OL or infinite ohms to ground.

I see that PCM went from 4606386AF to a 4606386AJ. I think that any 1997 JA or JX 2.5L would work. Older versions like *AA to *AI would work. Try to stick with the same model year as pinouts or other minor changes may have occurred.

Use these Mopar part #'s in your search:

81967
 

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MAP 5v supply shorted to ground?
Is it pretty much 0 Ω to ground?
Does the 5 volt line come up when everything except MAP is plugged in? Or is it still about 4.83v?
 

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The Vt/Wt wire out of C1-#61 is the 5 volts out to the sensors.
The Or/Wt wire out of C1-#44 is the 8 volts out to the Crankshaft Position and Camshaft Position (Distributor) sensors.
If either line is pulled down, it can cause a no start.

The internal regulated 5 and 8 volt supplies can also go into 'protection'. Once the issue is remedied, a key cycle (off/on) should bring the supply back on line.

I would start at the PCM. If the voltage is wrong, unplug the sensors and try again. Plug them back in one-by-one and when the voltage screws up again, the last one you plugged in should be the culprit.
 

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Super Moderator
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As long as your meter is correct, I would have to think the PCM internal hardware is failed. The regulated 5 volt output should be 5 volts, give or take a couple of hundredths of a volt (4.98-5.02).
The 5 volt line has a 'protection' mode where it will shutdown the line if it detects over-current, like a short. Maybe it took a hit from the MAP?
Replace the shorted MAP and the damaged PCM.

A flash can't change the intended application or core identity of the PCM. A 1997 JA/JX 2.5L Federal 50 state emission PCM can't be flashed or made into a different year, engine or emissions market. The PCM will always be what has been burned into the chip.
A flash only updates the existing software to fix or enhance program strategies for known problems. Chrysler still has to certify that any authorized PCM changes meet all government requirements. The part number will update when read with a DRBIII. After flashing, an Authorized Software Update label has to be applied both under the hood and on the PCM housing.

I would use this PCM as a 'trade-in' core for another PCM.
 
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