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97 Plymouth Voyager Intermittent Stalling

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My fathers '97 Grand Voyager 3.3 has been experiencing a fairly intermittent stalling issue, while driving. Happens most frequently when slowing down to stop, and sitting at traffic lights, or sometimes just driving around town. Will not stall on highway, at consistent speed. No ignition codes. Has a radiator cooling fan code, can't imagine that has anything to do with stalling. (It has new IAC, wiring around plug and harness looks great. Van will idle when it's happy.) I should also mention that this van does have a BCM short somewhere, doors will lock themselves, and tail light/side marker light circuit also has an issue. Before I continue, I need to mention that this van is a work/beater van. It is not pretty and does not warrant, "professional", fixes, or premium parts. It just needs to run and drive.

Now, back to the stalling problem. It tends to stall within the first 5-10 minutes of driving for first time of day. If I let it sit for 10 minutes on side of road, it'll fire right back up, and run great for rest of day. Occasionally, it'll quit twice on the same day, then fire up and run great after 10 minutes.

I can't figure if this could be an ignition issue, as if the coil is getting hot, like on a lawn tractor, or of it is a BCM/computer/sensor issue. I thought to myself if maybe the security system immobilizer could be killing ignition, based on the door lock short. Just a thought there.

Again, there are no ignition codes, or any engine related codes either. Engine is not missing or stumbling, during normal driving. One time, when engine fired up after stalling and waiting the 10 minutes, revved engine to limiter, and engine was backfiring, sounding like out of throttle body. Leading me to think ignition issue. Just another thought there as well.

What are you guys thinking?

Thanks!
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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Crankshaft Position sensors can fail without setting a fault code. It can be temperature-dependent or intermittent. It will lose spark without this signal.

The sporadic door locks & park/sidemarker lamp thing sounds like someone may have installed an aftermarket alarm/security device. Look around the steering column/underdash for a plastic box with spliced wiring & tie wraps.
 
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Reactions: Chase Burnham

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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A failed cam sensor will cause a long crank time as the PCM determines a substitute cam signal. Cam sensor is the fuel sync (#1 TDC) signal. Crank sensor is the ignition spark & tachometer signal.
Sometimes the tach needle will 'wiggle' while cranking. If the crank sensor has failed, the tach needle sits at 0.
Crank sensors may not set a fault code.

Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 04727336AB, 4686236, 4727336, 4727336A, 4727336AB
 
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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Another possible issue that could mimic a crankshaft position sensor problem is a cracked flexplate.
Sometimes they make a noise while running, sometimes they don't.
A dual-trace scope watching the cam/crank signals walking around is the only way to see this without pulling the transaxle for a visual inspection.



 
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Reactions: AllanC

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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A 'no start' can also be caused by the cluster being dead. This may be the whole problem.
Remove the cluster & touch up the fractured solder joints on the circuit board.

 
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