[Tatertot]

I'm not sure about new codes, the check engine light is still illuminated. Could be new ones or residual from before, just don't know.
I'm guessing it starts in second, because it does not shift in drive. I'll check all the connections in the morning. Thanks.
Any way for me to clear codes so I can tell which ones are new?

 

[ImperialCrown]

A battery disconnect/pause/reconnect should clear the fault codes. Real fault codes will come back.

 

[Tatertot]

Disconnected battery, cleaned all the terminals with alcohol and Q-tips, blew them out with lp air and put them back in. Hooked battery back up and no check engine light.
Thought that was a good sign, decided on a road test, and got same results as yesterday. The check engine light is on again, it would not shift at all, nad appears to be in second gear. Not sure what to think, was so excited when the engine light was off.

Checked with the shop that read my codes originally for me, and he reminded me that some of the codes were from the TCM. Codes like fault immmediately after a shift and slippage in several of the gears, but I just assumed that they were a result of the transmission malfunction. IT's going to cost me another $35 to get it put back ont he machine and have al the codes read, and if that is my only option at this point, then it will be a wise investment. I'm just looking to see if there is something else I can do or check on my own before that. Thanks.

 

[valiant67]

Slipping and fault after shift errors were definitely coming from the transmission, not a computer fault.
I would assume with the old transmission the van would start off fine then eventually go into limp mode. That would be expected with many hard part failures - the transmission functions fine until it gets to the point where the malfunction occurs.
With the replacement always in second, that means either the mechanical fault occurs as soon as the van is started or there's an electrical issue somewhere.

 

[Tatertot]

OK, so I am assuming that even if I were to pay to get the codes read, they may not tell me anything about which electrical connection is faulty, or where my problem is, other than just an error here or there? Or would the codes help eliminate something and point me in the right direction?
I'm planning to get electrical cleaner to help clean the terminals and some di-electric greade to put on them afterwards. Any thoughts about if thaty's a good or bad idea?

The speedometer works, so I'm assuming that means something. There are only so many connections, and I'm not sure how to determine if any of them are good or bad. What about disconnecting the battery to clear the codes, then watching to see when the light comes on? But is there a time delay with codes, or will the timing provide any information?
Lots of questions, I know. This was supposed to be a simple bolt in and connect, and so far it hasn't turned out that way. I'm using all the original plugs from my van, so perhaps that means issues are in the transmission, or not.

 

[valiant67]

The codes may help point you to a specific circuit. Maybe.

 

[Tatertot]

So any suggestions on where to go? Are there circuits I can check for continuity? Will some ones diagnostic equipment be able to tell which circuits are not connected, or just give a general fault code? is it important to determine what I'm doing when the light comes on or is that wasting my time?

There are 4 electrical plugs in teh transimssion. The speed input and output, the plug into the solenoid, and what is the plug that goes directly into the trans case, near the end?

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

Sounds electrical, from here. The computer's not hearing from something it should be. Check the pins in all connectors, both on the van side and the transmission side. Check/clean the TCM connector while at it. Check the fuse, too... should be fuse #15 I think in the PDC. Maybe the EATX relay, too.

Dielectric grease won't hurt anything, but is really more useful in the solenoid pack and TCM connector than anything else. The lack of it won't be causing this problem.

 

[Tatertot]

I want to thank all of you for your help. Makes a lot of difference to us back yard mechanics. I’m assuming the last electrical connection is the TCM? I know the speed in put and out put, and the solenoid, so the other connector is the TCM, right?
OK, here is what I know. I disconnect the battery and the codes all go away. It will start in Park and Neutral, but not the other positions. When I hit about 16mph the auto door locks kick in. I can run it in Reverse and no codes appear. When I put it in Drive, at about 20-25mph the Engine light comes on. I’m assuming that is about the point it should shift, and for some reason that is not happening.
I don’t know enough about the technical side to know if that would be caused by the solenoid or the TCM connections. But I feel pretty comfortable in assuming the input and out put connections are satisfactory. Think that is safe? My instincts tell me the problem is most likely with the solenoid connector. I had difficulties with it initially. Just need to determine how to check each pin to be sure it is making a connection. Thanks again.
My last question would be concerns driving it like this. The shop to read the codes is about 7 miles away, so I’m looking at about 14-15 miles, at about 25-30mph. As long as I keep the RPMs down, do you think it will cause any more problems with the transmission?

 

[Doug D]

The shop to read the codes is about 7 miles away, so I’m looking at about 14-15 miles, at about 25-30mph. As long as I keep the RPMs down, do you think it will cause any more problems with the transmission?

If at all possible, I'd check into having it towed. Even that short distance could be real wear & tear on the fluid. Maybe if you did real early in the morning when it's cool and there's minimal traffic it might be okay.

My daughter limped her old '99 Sebring LXi 25 miles to a local shop from town (bad speed sensor) and the fluid had to be changed as well as the input/output speed sensors. The fluid definitely smelled and looked bad. After replacing the sensors and fresh fluid, the transmission was fine.

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

The TCM connector is found on the TCM (trans control module) bolted to the right side inner fender. It's probably not the issue if you haven't done anything with it since the old transmission.

Solenoid pack connector issues could indeed cause this, but that's a pretty reliable connector. Should be very obvious if any pins are bent. Could be the pack itself is bad. My guess is we can rule out the output speed sensor and connector, because you have working speedometer and auto locks. Really, the only connectors I can think of that would cause it to start out in limp mode like this would be the solenoid pack connector and TRS (trans range switch) connector.

Getting the codes pulled again would help a lot.

Is it possible the new transmission was problematic before the twister dropped stuff on the donor van?

 

[Tatertot]

I was told the transmission was good, and the guy who took it out said he drove it before he took it out with no problems.

If it were in Limp mode, would it still operate in reverse? And the check engine light would be on, correct? Because I can operate in all the gears without the check engine light coming on, as long as I stay below about 20mph, or the range that it should shift to second. It doesn't look like there are any bent pins, I can't see anything obvious. I don't think I damaged any of the wires or the connectors when I took the old trans out, so I want to assume they are good. And I don't know how to check to see if the internal wiring is intact.

 

[A.j. Schreiber]

I would just double check all electrical connections and sensors again. Just the other day I forgot to plug the electrical connector to the EGR valve and it was triggering a CEL. it's easy to over look those kinds of things. Does anyone happen to have a diagram that shows all the sensors and/or electrical connections for the 41TE to assist TT?

 

[peterjon1]

I'm probably way off base here -- but you posted that the charging system voltage was low. Low voltage can do funky things to electronics.

 

[ImperialCrown]

I missed that. Yes if P1682 is still active you must start there.
It could have been a low battery from working on it with the key in the on position?
Are the headlamps bright at night? Do you ever have to jump start or charge the battery up on it?

 

[Tatertot]

Yes, low voltage was one of the codes I got. I do think at some point I ran the battery down, but it isn’t something that has been a recurring problem. Where or what would I check to determine low voltage? One answer would be to get codes read again, yes.
Update. I checked the pins and connectors and broke part of the solenoid connector. The nut in the center that is used to tighten the connector with came out, looks like the plastic broke and it came out with the screw. So that posses a problem. Not sure that is where the connection problem is or not, but it won’t help. Not sure if I can put some resin in the center to hold it in or not. What I am considering doing is pulling the solenoid off the old transmission and replacing this one. Then I would have the same electrical connector as the original. Concern is if I damaged the old solenoid when my transmission ate itself. Any respectable way to clean them? Do I need a new gasket for this, just some RTV or would it have a re-usable metal type gasket?
And finally, it would appear there is still a leak in the filter pan cover, so I have to address that before I can take it to get codes read. The road between here and there is a strait shot, pretty flat with only one stop sign the end of my street and a light just before the shop, so I can be easy and not cause traffic issues.

Later.
I put the van up on blocks so I could get under it, and I found the fluid leak, it was in one of the hoses going to the cooler. Cut an inch or so off the end and reconnected it. I let it run a while and warm up.
I made sure I raised both wheels off the ground so I could “test drive” it on the blocks. Still the same thing, check engine light comes on about 20-25mph. And I did it a few times, once accidentally with out connecting the solenoid plug, and got the exact same results. Looking like that plug is the issue. Thinking about taking the old one off, just to see what I’m dealing with, and then can decide what to do about the one in the van.
The other thing I realized looking at the codes is this. The codes I need come from the TCM, and I’m going to have to pay another $33 to get them read. I’m thinking my time and money are better spent right now changing the solenoid. Then if I still have codes or issues, I can take it down to get it read. And, changing the solenoid would solve the problem of the broken plug connector. Comments?

 

[ImperialCrown]

You should have about 13.0v-14.0 volts at the battery terminals at idle with the headlamps on.. If so, the charging system should be OK.
If you do use the old solenoid, you will need new gaskets and reuse the old sandwich plate. The newer solenoids don't use the plate and use just one gasket.
There are conical filters in the base of the sol pack that can be removed and thoroughly cleaned if they are filled with debris. See if a secure sol pack connection fixes the limp-in before going for codes.

 

[Tatertot]

Took the solenoid pack off the old transmission, the gasket came off with the solenoid and I was thinking of using it. Cleaned it off, checked the filter screens and didn’t see any debris.
Took the solenoid pack off the new transmission and the gasket stayed with the transmission and so I left it. Cleaned around it really good, used cleaner and then blew it off with air before I took it off, then wiped the plate down really well afterwards. I didn’t see a plate on either, and if there is one on the new trans, it stayed in place and I used it. Since the gasket on the new trans looked so good, I decided to leave it and move on. Took the gasket off the old solenoid and everything lined up great, put the bolts in and started it. No leaks, no codes.
But, now it doesn’t move. It will go in reverse, and hesitantly move some. In forward gears, it does not move, or only occasionally, and not enough to get back to where I was when I backed up. But still no codes. And yes, I could feel a difference in the way the connector tightened down, it was not getting that tight on the other solenoid. So thoughts on Where to go from here?
I have the new solenoid out of the van, so I have access to it and can work on it. Perhaps I can some type of epoxy and secure the nut piece back into the new one, and then swap them back.
I do not fully understand the function of the solenoid, or what this latest results means.

 

[Oklahoma Wolf]

You've lost fluid flow through the solenoid pack. Even without the solenoid pack connected it should still move in second and reverse.

Something's blocking the flow.

 

[Tatertot]

OK, I want to thank everyone again, and I’m hoping that one day (soon) I’ll have this all taken care of and not need to get on here every day. But, in the mean time…..
Just before the old transmission failed, I had similar issues with it, not moving. And one of my codes was about the solenoid. So I shouldn’t be real surprised by the latest development. I found the nut piece for the new solenoid and got some epoxy and more or less glued it in. It should be all set up and ready in the morning. The plan is to pull the old one out, put the new one back in and being careful, snug the connector back onto it. If I still have issues, I will assume this connection is good, since I’ve put so much into it. That is, unless some one can give me another explanation. Also, if there are still codes after this, I’ll have to break out the plastic and go get the codes read. Don’t see any other option at this point.
And just for the record. I am making an extra effort be ensure the all the parts are kept clean and the surfaces are free of any debris and just treating everything extra special.