1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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17,255 Posts
I usually erase the code the first time it happens, just to be sure that it isn't a fluke. A battery disconnect, pause and reconnect should erase the fault code. On the JX, the battery is hard to access, so I just unplug both PCM connectors or unscrew both of the underhood neg battery jump start nuts. If you power down the whole car, you will need to reset the clock and possibly stations if it isn't a Chrysler radio.
Sad to say, it is usually a real cat failure and it may take about 3 days for it to come back depending upon your driving habits. The PCM compares the upstream and downstream O2 signals to determine cat health, so the O2 sensors and EGR get tested first.
An aftermarket 'direct-fit' catalytic converter is the best way to go if you need one (except CA). No cutting, bending or welding, it goes in like OEM. If the rest of the exhaust system is weak or rusted you may have to address that now as well.
Sad to say, it is usually a real cat failure and it may take about 3 days for it to come back depending upon your driving habits. The PCM compares the upstream and downstream O2 signals to determine cat health, so the O2 sensors and EGR get tested first.
An aftermarket 'direct-fit' catalytic converter is the best way to go if you need one (except CA). No cutting, bending or welding, it goes in like OEM. If the rest of the exhaust system is weak or rusted you may have to address that now as well.