[Jerry Simcik]

Hahaha - take it form me, it's in the ASD circuit.

I do own one of these, and have had this issue a few times. It's either the Cam Position Sensor (CMS), the Crank Position Sensor (CPS), or the coil itself that is causing the issue.

It is most likely the CPS, 2nd most likely the CMS, and least likely the coil. (Even though you've replaced them, unless they were replaced with Mopar parts, they are still a culprit. Ask me how I know...)

The CMS is in the distributor, and so is the coil, so start by looking at the CPS, if that doesn't fix the issue, replace the distributor.

These cars monitor the cam and crank timing constantly, for many reasons, and if they are not in-sync, the PCM shuts the car down via the ASD realy. It kills fuel to the injectors.

When the ASD engages, no Check Engine Light (CEL) or code is triggered.

If you want, I can walk you through the diagnostic procedure, though you'll need a few things before we start.

 

[Jerry Simcik]

Whoa, whoa, whoa - you're bypassing the Crank Positioning Sensor as an issue? This is not advisable. Diagnose it first before jumping to the CMS.

FYI, if the CPS or CMS has an intermitent failure, the car will backfire or knock badly, possibly causing the CEL to flash during the episode, indicating a cat-harming knock or backfire. This can also cause a cat-related CEL to occur, but this is simply an after-effect rather than the cause.

You can very, very easily diagnose the proper function of the CPS with just a simple voltmeter and a hairdryer. If you want, I can walk you through it. The CPS is most usually the culprit in these cases, and is far cheaper to replace than the distributor.

 

[Jerry Simcik]

Glad you got it fixed. I love my Sebring, but the electrical system really is annoying and troublesome...

Also, SebringClub.net is a great resource for 'vert owners. You'll find me on there as "69RoadRunner."


TAZMO, if the car is stalling, and there aren't any codes, there are only 4 things I would check. (Bear in mind, new parts don't nessicarily mean they can't be the culprit.)

1) Check the negative battery post connection on the inner fender. There are actually two nuts on this post. Remove the upper nut and wiring connector, check the tightness of the lower nut, then replace the upper connector and nut.

2) Check the operation of the ASD relay.

3) Check the Crank Positioning Sensor.

4) Check the distributor (Cam Position Sensor and coil)