Allpar Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am experiencing issues related to my ignition switch.
Some of these issues could be related to other faults, but I do know that right now the steering wheel is not locking when the car is turned off. Sometimes when turned off, the odometers remained illuminated and if I don't fiddle with the key (on and off a few times) to turn them off, the battery will be stone cold dead in the morning. Sometimes you must press the key in firmly to get the starter to work when starting it. Daughter said she could not get the car turned totally off or get the key out yesterday.

So, there is the lock cylinder, the ignition switch body ( for lack of a better term) and the plastic, electronic part at the tail end.
Does anyone have any wisdom on which components I should replace? I am thinking that the electronic part at the tail end might not be bad, and that the mechanical part is what has failed.

Never had this sort of issue with any other car so I am blind and need insight.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,398 Posts
I have replaced ignition key cylinders due to a broken 'D' shaped actuator at the tail end. These were a potmetal piece that engaged into the switch and could break.
The result was that the actuator wouldn't engage all the way to the 'start' position or return all the way to the 'off' position. Pull it and take a look.
I imagine that at 22 years old, the cylinder and keys are worn. This cyl can be coded to match the present ign/door key.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
have you ever had to replace the part that the cylinder fits into?
Could this sort of breakage affect the locking of the steering wheel? I would guess it could affect how the switch at the other end works..

I will take it apart and look. Watched two videos and it is not complicated. the steering column on this iteration of the GC is much improved over the one from our preceding '89 Voyager.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,094 Posts
I had a 99 GC with a similar problem. I bought a lock cylinder rebuild kit at Advance Auto Parts and replaced the tabs and springs in mine. That way, I didn't have to have 2 different keys. One for the door and one for the ignition. I'm still kicking myself for ever letting that van go.
 

·
Virginia Gentleman
Joined
·
14,795 Posts
I had a 99 GC with a similar problem. I bought a lock cylinder rebuild kit at Advance Auto Parts and replaced the tabs and springs in mine. That way, I didn't have to have 2 different keys. One for the door and one for the ignition. I'm still kicking myself for ever letting that van go.
I still regret trading in the '00 T&C Ltd AWD we had. We loved that van. It did need some attention though - front struts. brakes (again), weepage from one of the transmission lines and the video system liked to turn on by itself (interfered with the radio signal). The seats were the most comfortable seats I've ever had in a vehicle - could drive for hours in comfort. It also had heated front seats (Ieather).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
866 Posts
Had similar issues with our '99 T&C some years ago - rebuilt the ignition switch with DORMAN 924703 from Rockauto - worked great and gives you selection of tumblers to match the original key.
 
  • Like
Reactions: chuzz

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
so I got a new switch from parts geek - the electrical part on the back. It came and I installed it and the weird dead as a doornail issue is gone, but now the battery allways seems just below the able to start point and I have to charge it every day. NOt sure why.

I have a cylinder rebuild kit on the way to address the jaming of that end. Ended up getting it from a locksmith place. The best price location would not sell me the kit unless I was a locksmith. The other place only limited me from buying tools to break into stuff. Has not arrived yet, but I have removed the tabs from my VW cylinder and cleaned and relubed them so I am sure it will not be an issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
So - whys is ht ebattery just a tad under charged all the time? I assume there could be a parasitic draw, or is the alternator (newish) bad or is the battery damaged from so many total discharges?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
am going to the parts store to have them check the battery and alternator at lunch today - one of the perks of working from home...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,677 Posts
. . . So - whys is ht ebattery just a tad under charged all the time? I assume there could be a parasitic draw, or is the alternator (newish) bad or is the battery damaged from so many total discharges? . . .
Frequent discharges of a lead acid battery to a level under 80% charge will definitely shorten the lifespan of a battery. But a load test on the alternator and battery are in order. It is possible that the rectifier bridge in the alternator could have developed a short circuit and that can drain a battery overnight.

Attached is a test on the 3rd generation minivan for excessive parasitic draw.

Battery Parasitic Draw Test.gif
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top