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Discussion Starter #1
first I apologize for posting this but i cannot figure out how to search for this info in the current configuration.

My 99 GC turns over, begins to start, then does not. the starter keeps turning the engine over and it makes an odd sound. I smell a lot of gas.

Is this the Crank or Camshaft position sensor? I found only two videos on YouTube about this and they were both in Spanish. I guess any other ones were removed in case they were anti- Biden.... Sorry -

Let me note that there is an ongoing issue with

I am looking for some pointers and/or advise to address this. Need to use it to pick up my daughter from college this weekend.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
oops - did not finish my thought.
There is an ongoing issue that may be related to the ignition switch that makes the wipers stay on sometimes and has killed the battery because it was not really OFF. sometimes you must press the key strongly toward the column to get the starter to work. Not sure if this has any bearing on the current problem...
 

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OK - so using a test light I determined that there is juice going to the coil when the starter is turning the engine. So I am guessing the coil is bad so will check.it, Could a faulty ignition switch have anything at all to do with this?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
no one?

I cannot find any youtube videos on this so either I am the last person to actually own this car or this has been scrubbed because it is somehow ant-Biden....

So checking primary coil I get nothing at all - needle on my meter does not even twicth. Checking the secondary I get a reading on each pair. So I am assumin' the coil is bad.
 

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The coil is actually 3 separate coils-in-one for the V6. It is rare for a complete coil failure.
You may not get +12v at the coil if the ASD relay is open. If there is no crank sensor signal, or it isn't running or cranking, the ASD won't stay on.
The wipers should be treated as a separate issue for now. Phantom wipers were common on these and usually attributed to a failing multifunction switch.

Any fault codes? A scan tool would be useful to see if cam and crank signals are present. They may not set fault codes.
The smell of gas would tell me that the plugs may be fouled or wet with gas if it isn't firing. Carbon fouled or wet plugs may not fire. Pull a couple and look.

There is a section in the Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures for no-start problems without fault codes starting on p. 272 here:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I guess I am remember being stranded by my dad's 1978 Dodge van. It would start up and then shut off when you released the key - kinda need to not relate that to this as they are works apart...

I was able to start it up and it ran for about 2 or 3 seconds then shut off.
I don't have a scan tool - think I jumped terminals with a paper clip before to ready codes. Can't remember which terminals or if that was a different car.

checking for continuity between the power in pin to the coil and the terminals - shouldn't that show up on the meter? I checked (third pin from the rear of the plug) to each terminal and got NO response, not so much as a twitch...
 

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If it consistently starts and runs a few seconds then dies, it could be the anti- theft system is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I swapped relays for the two locations that indicated shutdown.

But it is not constant. It was trying to start and sounding like it had started to run but not really 'catching'.
then Saturday it actually started and ran for a second or two and then shut off. have not been able to replicate that since.

Have not been able to apply what ImperialCrown sent me as of yet. Following some internet postings, I tested things and felt like the coil was bad, but the procedures I have followed may be flawed....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok - I swapped out the camshaft position sensor. was going to the junk yard anyway. I went to go start it and the battery was dead. It was dead the last time I tried to start it. key out. coil unplugged.
So I was about to hook up the charger again and I heard something that sounds like a relay working over in the fuse block area. Made the sound repeatedly for a bit then stopped. I think it did this the last time as well.

I am thinking that I have a problem with something in the fuse block or the computer.
Any ideas on where to look? I don't have a digital multimeter or a scan tool yet so tthe diagnosis route is a little challenging. I realize that is the best way to do this, but I am not really able to do that. I mm hoping that the things I am observing point in a direction that leads to a resoluton.
 

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A discharged battery with low voltage or poor connections may cause relays to rapidly cycle.
I have also had cycling relays that were due to wiring harness corrosion issues under the battery tray/IPM.
The affected wires may have a kinked/lumpy appearance down behind the left headlamp, air cleaner housing, on the harness's routing down in front of the transaxle. Get these components out of the way for a good visual inspection.
Pulling on the affected wires, the insulation may stretch and break. You may see green powder inside the wire where copper wire used to be. It only takes a pinhole in the wire insulation to make this happen.
 
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