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Discussion Starter #1
Man I hope ya'll can tell me whats down there. Its the 2.5 ltr, 6 cyl, 134k miles, 1999 sebring convertible. I cant find where the water is leaking from. Theres so much stuff in the way, egr tube, hoses, the distributor cap thing that plug wires go to, the intake, etc, etc so I cant tell what it is thats leaking. I did see 2 half inch to 3/4 inch hoses side by side going into the block maybe? They go to the left into the motor or something right there and theyre directly under the distributor or close to it right under there. I just cant tell but I think its coming from where those hoses go in. Cant stick my hand down there from the top and cant reach up there from the bottom to tell whats leaking the water because theres so much stuff in the way. Im just freaking out right now. All the water works its way out within 10 miles or so. Thanks a lot for all the help in the past. Hope someone can help this time too. Worried, thanks!, [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Found the reason water is leaking out of car every 10 miles. Theres a pair of hoses that go into the block on drivers side. They leave the block from there and go around, up and make a right turn, go across motor ubder the cowl piece, then drop down and make a right turn into the firewall. Im sure the 2 hoses end at the heater core. So, now that I found the leak, which is one of the 2 hoses that go into the block, I'll have to remove about everything to get to them. The egr hose, the throttle body lines, and all those other parts that are in the way so I can unhook the leaking hose of the 2 coming from the heater core. What I hope to find out now is if anyone knows if I can simply cut the one thats leaking right there at the block and just hook it back up with hose clamp or are those heater hose ends specially made to clamp on or go into the block or whatever theyre connected to? In other words, do you think I have to replace the whole hose all the way to the heater core just because the end at the block cant be replaced? Or are there any ways to reconnect the hose after I cut the bad end off? And is there a way I can get to that end and fix it without taking off the intake and all that stuff thats in the way? Thanks lot!!
 

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The heater hoses are formed/molded hoses that turn 90° and have 'quick disconnect' fittings on one end (if these are what is leaking).
Always use 50/50 coolant (never use straight water).
You should be able to find generic pre-formed heater hose elbows and adapter fittings at a good parts store. Regular hose ends pushed over the coolant tube 'ridge' and clamped may work. You may have to remove some items (upper intake) to make room to work.
I don't know if the OEM's are even still available (probably special order) at the dealer.
You don't want to overheat this engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yea! you know what hoses im talking about then. And youre right, def do not want to run it hot. So you are saying I have to take the intake off and thats right. Theres no way to get my hands on them to fix the one that sprung a leak. But you are saying that It's not imperitive that I go back with the exact same factory hose end thats on there now. I can look at the other ways you described or whatever, which means I dont have to run a whole new hose from there to the heater core in or under the dash? That def helps the situation if so. Thanks for that. Since the whole intake is needing to come off to give me enough room to fix the hose end, I would assume at 134k miles that I should replace those back 3 plugs and plug wires. Prob should replace the valve cover gasket too! Is there anything that would be wise to replace while I have access to that area then? And as always, THANKS for help!!
 

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Whatever you decide, just be sure not to twist and pull on those hoses to get them loose. You could break the solder joint on the heater core and then you're in for a real treat. Cut them with a razor knife or box cutter when you replace them. It could save you a ton of future work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well, thanks for the ''dont twist, yank and pull real hard trying to get it off'' advice. Because, as I keep trying to figure out how to un hook it from the nipple soldered to the blosk or whatever, the more and more I get frustrated and want to beat it off with a hammer! I CANT GET IT OFF. But i def havent broke the solder joint. Yet. How in the world don I get the thing unhooked or unclamped? Ive been fighting with it since I got all the stuff out of the way late last night. Im so ready to fix the hose's end piece that is clamped onto that soldered copper nipple thing so I can put everything back on and DRIVE again. Anybody know how? And anybody know how to explain to me how to get her off off there?? THANKS!!
 

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marcpilot1 said:
well, thanks for the ''dont twist, yank and pull real hard trying to get it off'' advice. Because, as I keep trying to figure out how to un hook it from the nipple soldered to the blosk or whatever, the more and more I get frustrated and want to beat it off with a hammer! I CANT GET IT OFF. But i def havent broke the solder joint. Yet. How in the world don I get the thing unhooked or unclamped? Ive been fighting with it since I got all the stuff out of the way late last night. Im so ready to fix the hose's end piece that is clamped onto that soldered copper nipple thing so I can put everything back on and DRIVE again. Anybody know how? And anybody know how to explain to me how to get her off off there?? THANKS!!
This wouldn't by chance be a crimped fitting, would it? If so, the crimp would have to be cut (dremmel tool works OK for that). I'm not familiar enough with that setup, but I know that on a 2.4 engine there are a few crimped water hoses that go to the block, and I had to cut the crimps. Check back here in a couple of minutes and I'll have a picture up.

Pictures:




 

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The plastic 'quick disconnect' retainers need to be pinched in order to release the heater hose ends from the metal lines. The hose ends have o-rings inside that seal against the metal lines. The plastic can crack and leak.
You could cut the crimp and replace the hoses from that point as well.
It depends on where exactly the coolant is leaking from.
Again, guidance from a factory service manual with pictures and procedures would save you a lot of frustration while working on this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It is the crimped fitting but right after the crimped big metal piece is the quick connect piece. I cut the hose and put a hose clamp on it. So far, perfect. Thanks for all help!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Its still not leaking at the repaired hose. Ive got a hose clamp on the end of it now as I had cut the quick connect off because it was so bad right there. I then pushed it back on, It was hard but finally went on, then tightened the hose clamp and it hasnt leaked a drop since. Thanks everyone for the replies, I couldnt have done this without you all's input, pics and advice. THANKS!!
 
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