[ImperialCrown]

Measure fuel pressure above and below a 1/4 tank.
The pickup screen (sock) may have fallen off inside the tank and it is sucking air along with fuel below a certain fuel level.
Injectors pushing aerated fuel foam will make it run lean.
I can only think that this is a pump/tank related problem.

 

[thudpucker]

Thanks Imp, you've verified what I thought.
Now it's worse. It "Bongs" when going around a corner.

How much of a prob lem is it for a shade tree mechanic to get that pump replaced?
Do I have to drop the tank?

Any special connectrs?
Stuff like that.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Not bad. Everything's plastic so it doesn't rust. Run it low on fuel for a lighter tank. Unscrew the filler tube from the body around the gas cap opening. The inboard side of the tank can be lowered with a floor jack. 15mm tank strap bolts. Try to find the weight-center for good front/rear balance. Use a wood board to distribute the jack support point. Don't allow it to hang by any hoses. You can probably leave the outboard strap bolts in to offer some tank support and keep it from slipping off the jack.
The electrical connector has a red lock tab that needs to be slid over in order to unlatch the connector, The barbed, plastic fuel line retainers pinch-to-release the lines. There may be some fuel pressure in the supply line, expect this, be careful and have rags ready to soak up fuel splash.
The fuel pump lock ring (nut) turns counter-clockwise to unscrew. There is a tool to use that the auto parts store may loan with a holding deposit.
0996b43f80208d90.jpg
A deluxe pump may come with a new lock ring and fuel line retainers and should have a new pump seal. Get a good name brand pump as some folks here have had trouble with cheapies.
There are images on Google if you don't have a service manual. A service manual may also be a good investment for this and future work with pictures, procedures and tightening torques.

 

[thudpucker]

I think I'll have to pay someone to do this. I'm getting kinda old and stiff. I can't thank you guys enough for the help. It seems like you went right to the problem.
Wife loves this old van.
I think I'm stuck with SHMBO on this one.

 

[gusc]

[SIZE=12pt]Your pump is probably overheating from lack of fuel to cool it.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]This could be a bunch of things. Check your fuel pump ground. Chrysler vans are infamous for poor fuel pump grounds which burn out the fuel pump motor. Check ground with a digital voltmeter with pump on. The voltage should be no more than 125-175 milivolts. The ground may be corroded which is worsened by water. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]If you need a new pump (Likely)be sure to get a genuine Chrysler pump as the aftermarket pumps don't hold up. This is expensive, about $400 at a garage, but you really have no choice. This is straight from my independent garage family friend who is the BEST. Also, add an extra ground wire from fuel pump mount outside tank to chassis. He does this for every new pump he installs.[/SIZE]

 

[thudpucker]

I want to thank you guys for respoding. She had a new "Pump" put in for just under $200.
I almost cried. As old as I am, I think I could have done it and saved us all that money.
Don't that seem like "Elder abuse" to you. I could've sued her! :scared:

The Bong is gone now, the car don't surge no more. Boreing eh? :yawn:

 

[ImperialCrown]

I still try to do the young man stuff, just a little bit slower and with ibuprofen. :lol:

 

[gusc]

Please do yourself a favor and add that extra ground wire to prevent this pump failing also.

$200 is a bargain, my pump alone was $400 but my mechanic insisted that after market pumps were a waste of time. I wish you well with yours and hope he is wrong.

With a poor ground the pump draws increased amps and burns out the motor.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Some aftermarket pumps are not very reliable, but it's not true of all of them. I am running a Bosch pump. And they are not as expensive as you say, unless you are factoring in labor. Bosch was $186 for my car, the cheapo ones were $85. Another car I had had a pump fail at 210K miles, and the mechanic charged $250 for the OEM pump that he got from the dealer (so it had two price markups already). With labor the whole job was $450.

If the pump's ground wire is not intact, the pump will not maintain pressure, and it would not run normally, so it would be obvious immediately. If it runs fine, the ground is intact. Cars with fuel injection have dedicated ground wires. Extra ground wires are really only called for in 1970s and older cars for the sending unit, because they usually did not have a dedicated ground wire.

 

[gusc]

I misspoke, my pump was $166! $400 was the total bill /labor! Sorry about that, but it was many years ago ('97).