I used my slant six frame after some welding to strengthen the frame. I also used Schumacher's mounts and torque strap. Got 400+ HP, no issues. We wleded the frame only because the factory welds were not so hot! Be sure to box in your lower Arms and drill the gussets for getting to the torsion bars adjusters.
A-body small block K- frame
I have a chance to buy a k- frame for 250.00, is that a good deal?
Also are there any tell tail signs that will let me no if it is a v-8 Frame?
Are they easy to install and would I still need new motor mounts?
Will the k- frame handle 500 hp better than the 6 to 8 convention kit from Schumacher ?
Thanks for the help. The frame is going into a 1975 valiant that currently has a slat 6.
Also are there any tell tail signs that will let me no if it is a v-8 Frame?
Are they easy to install and would I still need new motor mounts?
Will the k- frame handle 500 hp better than the 6 to 8 convention kit from Schumacher ?
Thanks for the help. The frame is going into a 1975 valiant that currently has a slat 6.
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I guess that is a reasonable price, and it does make it more factory original in design/style. There is a fair amount of work to change them. Loosen the torsion bars at the K member/lower control arm location, Jack the car up and support the subframe, remove the two front strut rods going from the lower control arm forward. Undo the nut on the front of the torsion bar, lets the lower control arm move off the K member. Remove the four 1.25 inch bolts, two on each side, have a floor jack under the middle of the K member. After the bolts are loosened, as you lower the K member the lower control arms can be wiggled loose and remian in place as the K member is pulled forward. There isn't any tension on anything once the torsion bars were backed off, but everything can remain in place without having to remove it in this manner, and I think the four bolts are torqued to 125lb-ft, but verify that.
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