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Discussion Starter #1
Before I spend big money on finding out what is happening with my A/C, I thought that some of you might have had a similar problem and could give me some things to check first.
You'd think the thing would either work or just quit all together!
(The kill me part
)

My 2001 Chrysler Sebring Sedan (2,7) is acting up and of course .. it's summertime!

The A/C works intermittently!
Sometimes it will run for a long while but when you shut down to go shopping, you come back and nothing but fan air.

It will either not come back on or it will come on, blow cold for a while (varies on how long) and will shut off again.

At times it's on/off/on .. etc. etc.
Some trips it works fine for an hour at a time but it's a gamble!

Here is something else: Sometimes when you start the car, turn on the a/c, I get a horrible loud squeal .. usually when turning the steering wheel at the same time?
(Is the a/c connected to the power steering in some way?)
I turn the a/c off and back on when I get on a straight path and no squeal?

The a/c will work after that or maybe not!
([email protected] shoot)

As I know nothing about a/c I have some ideas but they are only ideas!

1) low freon

2) something wrong with a thermostat, assuming the a/c has one?
(If the a/c is on high, why would a thermostat come into play?)

3) a belt?

My only other solution would be ...

 

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Welcome to Allpar.
1) Low refrigerant would likely cause consistently warm air out of the vents. Since it blows cold at times, I would look elsewhere. This almost sounds like intermittent electrical.
2) There is an evaporator fin temperature probe and a high-side pressure transducer to control compressor cycling. I have seen these and the wiring to/from them be intermittent and cause the symptoms you are seeing.
3) The squeal related to the P/S is likely the serpentine belt either loose or worn. It is tensioned by a spring loaded pulley. It should be inspected for glaze (shiny) or oil leaking onto it that would make it slip and squeal.
If the belt is slipping and the compressor isn't turning, it won't pump the refrigerant and there will be no cooling. A visual inspection could confirm this. Be wary of spinning belt and pulleys and stay safe when up close to them.
The radiator/condeser fan should be running when the A/C compressor is engaged and the vehicle is stopped or crawling along. Since a good amount of air blows through the condenser on the highway, the fans may not be needed while driving along.
Other things to check are any fault codes related to the HVAC system. A good scan tool may even be able to tell you what the PCM is seeing as far as evap temp and high-side pressure.
This would aid in diagnostics. Of course you will probably have to catch the A/C when it isn't working, as when it is working, everything will look OK. Fault codes can be stored in the module and that helps with intermittent problem cases.
We'll forgo your last solution for now. :D
 

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In addition to the troubleshooting tips provided by I C, a manifold gauge set needs to be attached to the suction and discharge ports on the A/C system. Observe the pressures and if the discharge pressure at idle approaches 500 psi, either the cooling fans are not providing sufficient air flow over the condenser or the expansion valve / orifice tube metering device is plugged and not regulating refrigerant flow properly. If the PCM (powertrain control module) senses abnormally high discharge pressure, it will disengage the A/C compressor clutch for several minutes. During this time there will be no cooling. After system pressure returns to a normal level, the PCM will allow the A/C compressor clutch to engage again and the cycle repeats.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can't thank you guys enough!
You have given me some good clues!
My only problem now is .. Can y'all send me a few bucks to have someone check all that out?


I really, really miss the old distributor/carb driven automobiles!

Nothing is easy on these things!
(I can't even see the belts because they are completely covered with 'stuff' .. mostly plastic covers.)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I forgot!

Electrical problems were mentioned.

A while back, I had the radio start blinking off and on.
The door locks work at times and at other times only the driver side will work.
(electrical?)

I started blowing a starter fuze and had to eventually install a larger one.
Every morning I'd come out .. turn the key and 'nothing'!

It was the 20 amp starter fuse which I had to replace with a 25 amp to stop the problem!

Little odds and ends that seem to be electrical?

No codes show for any of the problems?
 

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. . . A while back, I had the radio start blinking off and on.
The door locks work at times and at other times only the driver side will work.
(electrical?)
It is very likely that a poor ground or power electrical connector is the source of the electrical issue. You will need a wiring diagram and search for power and ground leads to the radio and door lock control. You can check at a local library for an auto service manual or search the internet for an appropriate wiring diagram. You need patience and determination when tracking electrical problems.

I started blowing a starter fuze and had to eventually install a larger one.
Every morning I'd come out .. turn the key and 'nothing'!

It was the 20 amp starter fuse which I had to replace with a 25 amp to stop the problem!
The starter solenoid control circuit is drawing excessive amperage and causing the fuse to blow. Either a wire is chafed and shorting to ground or there is an internal problem in the starter solenoid winding. Increasing the amperage on a fuse is a short term band aid which can cause problems later. You are allowing more amps to travel through the circuit than designed. This can cause overheating of the specific wire(s) and more problems in the future.
 

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When it starts blowing warm try setting the selector to defrost with the air on. I had a similar AC problem and doing that caused it to blow cold air. That worked for several years until this summer.
 

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The squealing indicates a slipping drive belt. IDK if the a/c and p/s on the 2.7 are run by the same belt? If belt slips, compressor may not turn, or turn too slowly = warm air. Or, I had intermittent a/c on my 2006, got to the point that it would work only on defrost; replacement of dash switch solved that. Switch seems to be the same between 2001 and 2006.
Got mine on Ebay.
 

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I had the same issue with my 2002 Sebring Convertible and it was the control head, replaced with a new one and no more issues
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The squealing indicates a slipping drive belt. IDK if the a/c and p/s on the 2.7 are run by the same belt? If belt slips, compressor may not turn, or turn too slowly = warm air. Or, I had intermittent a/c on my 2006, got to the point that it would work only on defrost; replacement of dash switch solved that. Switch seems to be the same between 2001 and 2006.
Got mine on Ebay.
peterjon1,

I don't know what the dash switch is that you are talking about?

Could you describe it please?
Thank You
 

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This: If you can find one with the right color bezel included, takes under 5 minutes to change. If you get just the switch assembly, there are quite a few screws that hold the switch to the bezel, so it takes a little longer. Have a salvage yard nearby? Bet there's lots of them there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I want to give Thanks to all of you who responded.

There wasn't a like button on the forums when I use to post here .. long ago and it seems that there is a 'waiting' period before I can 'like' a post at this time?

Well, I may not be able to 'Like' y'all but I Can Thank You!

MC
 
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