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Discussion Starter #1
I understand that there could be any number of 'things' that could cause this problem but I thought that I would run it through here for some ideas?

A 2001 Sebring (2.7).

Sometimes but not always when I go to start the engine I get a click.

Turn the key off and back to start and it cranks right up?

The click is from under the hood and not from the fuel pump so I'm guessing something is going bad like a starter relay?

Like I said, it doesn't happen all the time, just once in a while?

Battery is brand new.

Thank You Everyone.
 

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The starter relay in the PDC fuse/relay box would be a very light 'click' that would be very difficult to hear from the driver's seat.
The starter solenoid (downstream of the relay) mounted on the starter would be a louder 'click' that would be fairly easy to hear from the driver's seat.
It could be caused by a number of possibilities from poor connections or grounds up to a starter becoming intermittent.
Review a starter system wiring diagram including the Neutral Safety Switch wiring. Shifter cable adjustment OK?
Begin with clean and secure battery terminals. Was this also happening before the new battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The starter relay in the PDC fuse/relay box would be a very light 'click' that would be very difficult to hear from the driver's seat.
The starter solenoid (downstream of the relay) mounted on the starter would be a louder 'click' that would be fairly easy to hear from the driver's seat.
It could be caused by a number of possibilities from poor connections or grounds up to a starter becoming intermittent.
Review a starter system wiring diagram including the Neutral Safety Switch wiring. Shifter cable adjustment OK?
Begin with clean and secure battery terminals. Was this also happening before the new battery?
Thank You for your reply.
My BH says that she never hears the click but I'm sure that I hear it?
(I'll have to pay more attention)

The battery is new and the posts and connections are clean.
It (the click) did happen with the old battery too.

I hope that there is a way to test the relay and the solenoid?
My stepson is a mechanic so I'll ask him.
(He lives a long way from us)

I hope it's the relay because, apparently you can't purchase just the solenoid at autozone .. you have to replace the starter.

The neutral safety switch is one that I never thought of.
I did think about the cable but figured that since we never mess with the shift when this happens (no start to start) that wouldn't be in play?

Again,
Thank You
 

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Many of the relays in the PDC are the same part number. Swapping the starter relay with another (non-critical) relay would be a fair test. It would be unusual that another relay would be failing in the same manner. Just remember which one you swapped it with.
Starter motor and solenoid are serviced together as one unit.
First diagnose what you can. I realize that you can't fix what ain't broke.
See p. 307 here for the diagnostics. Simple wiring diagrams and connector pinouts are shown in the back of the book:
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service Manuals/2002_JR_Sebring_Stratus/02jrep.pdf
I wouldn't want you to get stranded from this, but if it began to act up more consistently, the problem might be easier to find. So far it has always started for you.
 

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If you swap relays, remember where you put the starter relay. If the problem goes away, you will want to replace that relay as it is going bad. I agree with the almost quiet relay being the small relay in the box. Starter relay is usually loud enough for all to hear.
 

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Either a bad connection at the starter solenoid, or the solenoid contacts themselves.
A few years ago, I experienced this in cold weather only. Up to a dozen clicks before it finally cranked. Never did it when warm or engine warm.
I bough a solenoid kit and took it apart, and the contacts were burned away halfway through their thickness. So turning the key made it arc and heat up, and finally the contacts would expand enough to work.
Replaced the contacts and never had a single problem again.
 

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Question:
Are not the solenoids mounted on the starter motor connected in series with the windings in the starter motor in order to achieve a path to chassis negative? This was very common in older starter solenoids. So a faulty brush could go open at the beginning of the cranking cycle which would cause a perfectly good solenoid to go "click"
 

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. . . . Are not the solenoids mounted on the starter motor connected in series with the windings in the starter motor in order to achieve a path to chassis negative? . . . So a faulty brush could go open at the beginning of the cranking cycle which would cause a perfectly good solenoid to go "click" . . . .
Inside the starter solenoid there are 2 concentrically wound electrical coils. One is grounded directly to the starter chassis; the hold-in winding. The other is grounded as you indicate through the starter motor brushes; the pull-in winding. However the clicking sound indicates the coils are moving the starter pinion into mesh with the flywheel ring gear. The issue is the contacts that are closed and provide power to the starter motor are corroded and will not provide sufficient current / amps to operate the motor. See attached image.


Starter Wiring Typical.gif

. . . I hope it's the relay because, apparently you can't purchase just the solenoid at autozone .. you have to replace the starter. . . . .
There are specialty automotive electrical shops that sell just the starter solenoid. Do a search on "2001 chrysler sebring 2.7 v6 mitsubishi solenoid" and you will find products. You will need a part number or picture to match and get the correct item.

This is one Ebay store source of specialty electrical products that I found.

Items in Triodiode DC Electric And Tractor store on eBay! (at http://stores.ebay.com/Triodiode-DC-Electric-And-Tractor )
 

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I had the same issue a few years back on the same car, 2001 Sebring 2.7

There was no doubt in my case that it was the solenoid.

The solenoid isnt removable or repairable on the original starter.

At the time Chrysler offered a new updated starter for less than an aftermarket unit.

The good thing is, in my case, it clicked intermediately for a few months, never stranding the car.

Thanks
Randy
 

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If the starter relay (In box) is weak, it can click and pull the starter solenoid but will not have enough current flow to fully engage the starter solenoid. The initial pull moves the solenoid freely UNTIL the gear touches the flywheel ring gear. If you are lucky, the gear meshes and no additional force is needed and the contacts close and the starter motor is turned on. If the gear comes into contact with the ring gear AND DOES NOT MESH, it must compress a spring and that requires additional force(CURRENT) to flow from the relay which might not be available I'd the relay contacts are worn. A quick switch of relays eliminates that potential issue and costs nothing. That does not mean that you don't have solenoid issues too but it will not hurt one bit to try.
 

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If the 'click' has an audible 'clank' quality to it, then the starter gear may be throwing out into the flexplate ring gear, but the starter motor may not be turning. This would best be serviced as a starter assembly.
You can mess around with rebuilding solenoids and switch contacts, but in the end, a quality reman starter assembly will likely save both time and money and have a warranty.
 
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