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ABS 1999 Dodge Avenger/Chrysler Sebring coupe

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Warping rotors every 30,000 mi, no abs trouble light in the dash. I verified the abs dash light works. Rotors, brakes, calipers, master cylinder, and front brake hoses have been replaced.

The system has also been bleed. I think it's a teves mark 20 abs system.
R Rear disk
L Front disk
L Rear disk
R Front disk

I don't have a DRB scan tool to do the programmed abs bleed procedure.

All 4 wheel speed sensors measure a resistance of 1.7-1.72k.

Tried ceramic pads and drilled rotors, same issue. The brakes and abs system all function with no noticeable issues until it eventually warps the rotors. I don't loose any brake fluid in the system over time. The brake pedal activation stays firm not soft. I think that the brakes are staying on just enough to where I can't tell.

Could the system just need a bleed with a DRB scan tool?
Even with no trouble light on the dash, possible the abs ecu or hcu is causing this?

Thanks!
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· Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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17,022 Posts
ABS shouldn't cause rotors to warp. The ABS bleed feature on the scan tool is mainly for bleeding the HCU (hydraulic control unit) if it went dry or was replaced. Conventional bleeding should work otherwise. Was the system opened or hydraulic components replaced at all?
Are the rear disc calipers frozen or stiff? This would make the fronts do all or most of the work in stopping the car. If there is a hydraulic combination valve that meters fluid to the rear, it may be faulty? The heat from this work can warp rotors. Is the parking brake cables part of the rear caliper function?
Are the rotors pitting (usually on the inside surface)? Are the caliper sliders and pistons free to move? What kind of driving does the car see? Drilled rotors sound like overkill.
 

· Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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17,022 Posts
If the front is heating up and locking the caliper on, you have either a hydraulic or mechanical problem. One or both of the front brakes are dragging, maybe more so when warm. Hot brakes still should not drag.
Get the brakes hot and find out which side is bound up. Sometimes a simple feel of the left and right wheel will tell you if one is much warmer than the other. Open the bleeder screw to see if a spurt of fluid comes out and releases the dragging brake.
4 wheel discs should all 'grip' evenly and at the same time. Make sure that all 4 brakes work by trying to turn the wheel when off the ground with the pedal 'lightly' depressed.
If the m/cyl was for a disc/drum system and the brake circuit is diagonally split, the wrong m/cyl could cause one front to stay on. Drum w/cyls require a constant residual fluid pressure.
The hub that the rotor mounts on should be sanded clean for good heat transfer and a true surface to mount to. Same with the inside mating surface of the wheel to the rotor. You want a clean, corrosion-free surface to sit flat against the rotor surface for best heat transfer and no uneven 'pressure points' against the rotor that may create a run-out condition after awhile, even if the lug nuts are evenly torqued.
 
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