[mr2tim]

Had a slow leak in the 05 ac system and in the process of installing a dye and a can of 134 I see bubbles down in the base of the schrader valve/housing. I see a selection of these parts in the local parts website but it's a mail order only deal.

Any body out there deal with this problem? Or have this part returned after servicing?

I'm told Harbor Freight has a vacuum pump and I thought I'd take a crack at a DYI replacement. Like what could go wrong? Ha! Ha!

 

[ImperialCrown]

If it is just the suction-side Schrader valve, Google for Mopar part # 5127429AB. Reclaim the system and follow all safety procedures before servicing the A/C. You will need to evacuate and recharge an empty system.
If PAG oil has been lost, estimate the amount and replenish. Do not over-oil.
The discharge-side Schrader is Mopar part # 5003461AA and looks like a standard tire valve.
If it still leaks after servicing, you may need to replace the A/C line. I have serviced cars in the past that had the A/C port caps missing and the valve seat that is part of the line fitting was corroded and kept leaking.
Line replacement can get more expensive. You only want to do the job once.

 

[mr2tim]

Thanks IC.

I looked at that ac line that has the valve seat that you mentioned. It runs from the top of the inner fender down to the pass side of the condenser radiator. It's a 1 bolt fitting at the condenser which seems relatively accessible. The valve seat assembly is welded to the line and not replaceable.
I suspect that if this line is compromised that it may be a "dealer-only" item. (Grimace)

Appreciate the insight of the line replacement from a pro..
Unfortunately Chrysler did NOT make the valve seat replaceable, but hey when did manufacturers ever look out for the DIY owners huh?

? In this picture of parts, (a) replacement seat is shown. Must be for the lower valve above the compressor.???

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Thanks IC.

I looked at that ac line that has the valve seat that you mentioned. It runs from the top of the inner fender down to the pass side of the condenser radiator. It's a 1 bolt fitting at the condenser which seems relatively accessible. The valve seat assembly is welded to the line and not replaceable.
I suspect that if this line is compromised that it may be a "dealer-only" item. (Grimace)

Appreciate the insight of the line replacement from a pro..
Unfortunately Chrysler did NOT make the valve seat replaceable, but hey when did manufacturers ever look out for the DIY owners huh?

? In this picture of parts, (a) replacement seat is shown. Must be for the lower valve above the compressor.???

The part you replace is the Schrader valve core, with its O-rings attached. Just like a tire valve core. Same tool used to unscrew it.

 

[Glopart]

Here's a cheap and easy. Make a thin rubber gasket that'll fit inside the cap. Twist it on snugly. Solved the same problem on my 01 PT. Or at least slowed it down enough that it wasn't a problem.

 

[mr2tim]

And so Bob Lincoln is the winner. The service valve failure is indeed only a service line replacement.
REPEAT-REPLACE LINE ONLY.
if it leaks it's replacement only.
Can you believe ALL the parts store will sell you valves anyway????????
However, Advanced and Rockauto both offer a #56832 "liguid line" that's touted as a replacement. Doesn't match the curvy line in my 05 but from all the bad options ignorant Rockauto suppliers puke out this seems like a best option (more news on this soon).
I have the $18 vacuum pump (powered by a separate compressor??, supplied by you) from Harbor Freight, rigged with the proper connecting lines, ready to go.
Also, I've been using a aftermarket service line (which connects to the service port) for adding cans of r134 which has a pressure gauge attached which will tell me, if when I use the vacuum pump, if I have any more leaks in the system.
I hope this information sharing helps other owners who sooner or later will be dealing with this same failure.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

And so Bob Lincoln is the winner. The service valve failure is indeed only a service line replacement.
REPEAT-REPLACE LINE ONLY.
if it leaks it's replacement only.
Can you believe ALL the parts store will sell you valves anyway????????
However, Advanced and Rockauto both offer a #56832 "liguid line" that's touted as a replacement. Doesn't match the curvy line in my 05 but from all the bad options ignorant Rockauto suppliers puke out this seems like a best option (more news on this soon).
I have the $18 vacuum pump (powered by a separate compressor??, supplied by you) from Harbor Freight, rigged with the proper connecting lines, ready to go.
Also, I've been using a aftermarket service line (which connects to the service port) for adding cans of r134 which has a pressure gauge attached which will tell me, if when I use the vacuum pump, if I have any more leaks in the system.
I hope this information sharing helps other owners who sooner or later will be dealing with this same failure.

That venturi pump that you got from Harbor Freight will not pull a strong vacuum. It may be minimal necessary to make the system work adequately, but it can never approach the vacuum drawn by a true pump. If you are keeping this car and want cool air for more than, say, 3 years, I'd pay a pro to draw the vacuum and charge the system. It will cool MUCH better and definitely last longer, since they will get far more air and moisture out.

 

[mr2tim]

Thanks for responding Bob. I suspect I have an additional leak in the glove box/evaporator which caused me to add more 134 and that gooey dye crap which showed up the bubbling shrader valve as a fun side adventure. Your suggestion will be followed after all the defective parts and pieces have been replaced. I've had that slow leak at the evap for about a year, so when I open that area I'd care to bet there's gonna be lots of that dye crap all over. Noo need for a black light :0

 

[Bob Lincoln]

The evaporator is a 6-8 hour job. Not fun. You have to remove the entire airbox behind the dash, which means draining the coolant and recovering the refrigerant. Then nearly everything behind the dash comes out. For my Daytona, I had to remove the passenger seat and wrestle for 45 minutes to angle the airbox out. You want to see a grown man cry, swear and bleed, that's an excellent way to make it happen.

 

[Doug D]

The evaporator is a 6-8 hour job. Not fun. You have to remove the entire airbox behind the dash, which means draining the coolant and recovering the refrigerant. Then nearly everything behind the dash comes out. For my Daytona, I had to remove the passenger seat and wrestle for 45 minutes to angle the airbox out. You want to see a grown man cry, swear and bleed, that's an excellent way to make it happen.

Agree . Not a fun job. I can think of better ways to spend my time.

That's why I opted to have a local shop replace the entire climate control assembly (HVAC doors failed) in my '06 Ram 1500. Truck spent 10 days in the shop (8 days were spent dealing with Chrysler on parts issues). If I did it, it would have probably taken a month. Due to redesigned assemblies a new evaporator (smaller) was required. And yes, nearly everything behind the dash had to come out. Even had to drop the steering column onto the seat. Labor charges alone were ~$650. Since the truck is 11 years old with 243K miles, the heater core was replaced as well. Didn't want to have the entire job done again to replace the heater core. For me, it was well worth spending the money.

 

[mr2tim]

Well fellers, I shant be skeered. Any time I do dash work on my fast car I pull the seats for room to operate. (I don't bend like I used to.) Thanks for the estimate on time expended on your jobs, I will use that to schedule "her" 05 cars downtime. Doug you've inspired me to dig deep in the schematics and parts acquisitions for this dash work. I may put the 01 PT back on the road for this work period after spending about a month doing part time work on it's timing belt/pump. >Things appear to go slower as I get older.

89 SC Mr2 Race Prepared/Street Licensed
88 SC Mr2 Street car
88 NA Project Car
87 NA Mr2 Hardtop Drag Car
87 NA Mr2 Street Car Sunroof
87 V6 Fiero AutoX-street
95 Camaro Z-28 Race/Street
73 Triumph Spitfire-Rally
83 Celica Autocross Prepped
70 Chevy Nova 396/325HP-Drag
64 Olds F-85 Drag Car

 

[mr2tim]

HEADS UP.

I pulled off the plastic trim under the pass side windshield off, and with blacklite, looking for 134 dye. NO<NO<NO. This is "only" for the access for the cabin filter. (after the 01 model I guess?)
The area of the ac connection at the evaporator is blocked/boxed off from the intake air chamber.

I used a lawn mower air filter over the hole for intake air where my 05 has it's cabin filter. I used glue backed aluminum tape to seal, then glued/sealed those seams. Failure to seal will cause leak at pass floor )o