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Discussion Starter #1
We only got one key with our used '05 when we bought it so needed another. I recalled them being pricy so when I called the local dealer and was quoted $74 for a logo key blank or $40 for a plain one, and $60 to program either one that sounded like a good deal so I made the apppointment to get it done. Showed up and said I'd go ahead and get the logo one and the guy asked if I'd been given a price and I relayed the info. He then mentioned that if I wanted it to have the remote buttons and having them programmed the price suddenly doubled. Actually, it went from about $140 total to $250, more in line with the pricing I'd heard about when I'd investigated for one of my earlier vans. Well, crap. I was already there so told them to go ahead and left it. Took all damn day to get it back and after a slight mixup retrieving the vehicle I drove home and learned there that neither my original key nor the other would operate the locks. Pushing the Lock button would cause the lights to flash but no locking noise or action occurred. Nor would they unlock if I had manually locked them and then tried the remotes. Not only that, but the doors would no longer autolock at 20 MPH. Well, double crap.

Did some searching on here and the only hint I could find was the suggestion to disconnect the battery for several minutes to reset the BCM so I did that and normal operation was restored. Thanks, Allpar!

The left slider lock is still immune to both central and remote locking/unlocking so I'll get into the door guts to investigate the connections there, but I'm glad the new key worked out and I was certain to give the dealer a blistering review (pricing, pickup mixup and inop locks) when they hit me with the followup email. Hope your day went better.
 

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Most dealerships throw in an extra key with the purchase...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
We had bought the van used elsewhere, some little independent lot across town. I did not mean to imply that the dealer shorted us on the purchase, but they sure didn't earn any good will on that service visit.
 

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Most dealerships throw in an extra key with the purchase...
I bought two new cars, 1985 and 1992, with financing, and both times (different dealer), they only gave me one full function key and one valet key, said they didn't have others, despite what the owner's manual said.
2012, my wife bought a new car cash. They gave us both key fobs.
I think some dealers hold back a key on cars with loans, to make repo easier. And they will never admit that.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Well, it happened again, the central/remote/autolocking stopped working again this morning. After driving to the river for a dog walk and toggling the lock lever on the driver's door (the one near the door handle, not the lock button on top of the door panel near the glass) the doors would not lock. Also did not work by using the lever on the passenger's door or by using the Lock button on the key fob. Once again, using the Lock button on the fob caused the lights to blink (don't recall if the horn sounded or not--need to check this next time) but no lock sounds or action. And using the Unlock button on the fob had no result. Got back home and disconnected the battery for a short time, then reconnected and now the locks are working again by both fobs (the one that came with the van and the one we bought) and both front door levers. Could something be wrong with the BCM to cause this? I'm now carrying a wrench in the van so I can do the disconnect/reconnect wheen needed but would like to know more about this so will do some research. Any wisdom from the regulars would be welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks! I'll follow up on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I called a different dealer who does not know me or the vehicle and after reviewing the VIN they said, "No outstanding recalls." No answer on the TSB. So I went by the spare key dealer today and the service guy reviewed the VIN and told me, "No outstanding recalls." When I asked about the TSB he said they'd need to hook it up to a scanner to find out, presumably to determine the current software version on it, but it would cost $115 so I passed. I'll continue the battery reboot routine until it pisses me off and then I'll think about spending more money on it.
 
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