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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2011 Dodge Grand Caravan Crew has 314,781 miles. i replaced spark plugs 41,000 miles ago. I have noticed some sluggishness, for the lack of a better word and when i do the procedure to reset the oil change indicator, it does not work and this oil change only has 2637 miles on it.
I typically change oil every 5000 and use Platinum Penzoil Full Sunthetic Oil with new filter every time.

I plan on changing oil tonight but, i have notice a slight metal gurgling sound as if the heat shield on the cat converter is loose but, it is not loose it is coming from like dead center like around where the bottom of the main console and i do not hear it unless i am next to a building and i am slowly accelerating.

My front exhaust pipe has small dent in it where when someone jacked it up in the wrong place caused some damage but i have since been to muffler since and they said it was fine.

Like today when i started it, it almost sound like it was going to back fire through the carborator and I Know it has fuel injection, not a carborator.
It started up right away but, things make me nervous. I got gas a Quik Trip and they guarantee their fuel.

Maybe 5000 is too long on a oil change,? and maybe spark plugs will not last as long either? . I just do not want early detonation.
Please advise. No check Engine light associated with this issue.
 

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. . . . and when i do the procedure to reset the oil change indicator, it does not work and this oil change only has 2637 miles on it. . . . .
Here is a short video on the procedure to reset the oil change indicator. Are you depressing the accelerator pedal fully, releasing fully and completing the procedure within 10 seconds?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFSfT1YK070


. . . . I typically change oil every 5000 and use Platinum Penzoil Full Sunthetic Oil with new filter every time. . . . .
. . . . Maybe 5000 is too long on a oil change,? and maybe spark plugs will not last as long either? . I just do not want early detonation.
Please advise. . . . .
Your driving style does tend to more severe: low speed, lots of idling. So you are building contaminants in the engine oil faster than if the vehicle was experiencing more highway miles. Oil change interval of 5000 miles is probably sufficient. But the only real and accurate way to know if a 5000 mile oil change interval is adequate is to send a sample of the engine oil at drain time to a laboratory that specializes in engine oil analysis. Scientific analysis will give wear analysis, contamination buildup and if you ask for TBN (total base number) the lab can tell you if the oil additives are still sufficient to protect the engine or depleted. Cost will be in the $35 - $40 range.

The other aspect of oil change interval is the amount of solid contaminants that get trapped in the filter. You would not want to extend the oil drain interval so long that the filter became completely plugged and the bypass valve opens to allow unfiltered oil to circulate in the engine.

You can monitor spark plug life by removing one of the three on the front bank next to the radiator. If you are getting 300,000 miles from spark plugs that is amazing. Lots of miles on spark plugs tends to wear the center electrode. But as long as you are not experiencing misfire then you are probably OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here is a short video on the procedure to reset the oil change indicator. Are you depressing the accelerator pedal fully, releasing fully and completing the procedure within 10 seconds?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFSfT1YK070




Your driving style does tend to more severe: low speed, lots of idling. So you are building contaminants in the engine oil faster than if the vehicle was experiencing more highway miles. Oil change interval of 5000 miles is probably sufficient. But the only real and accurate way to know if a 5000 mile oil change interval is adequate is to send a sample of the engine oil at drain time to a laboratory that specializes in engine oil analysis. Scientific analysis will give wear analysis, contamination buildup and if you ask for TBN (total base number) the lab can tell you if the oil additives are still sufficient to protect the engine or depleted. Cost will be in the $35 - $40 range.

The other aspect of oil change interval is the amount of solid contaminants that get trapped in the filter. You would not want to extend the oil drain interval so long that the filter became completely plugged and the bypass valve opens to allow unfiltered oil to circulate in the engine.

You can monitor spark plug life by removing one of the three on the front bank next to the radiator. If you are getting 300,000 miles from spark plugs that is amazing. Lots of miles on spark plugs tends to wear the center electrode. But as long as you are not experiencing misfire then you are probably OK.
thank you for replying. I changed spark plugs 41k miles ago and before that around 100k miles after i changed them the first time at around 110k miles. so, to date,i have changed them 3 or 4 times. Probably overkill but, better safe than sorry.

I have done the reset several times and it used to work but, now it does not want to reset.

What about the vapor canister? when it has issues how does it affect performance related to sluggishness?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
2011 Dodge Grand Caravan Crew has 314,781 miles. i replaced spark plugs 41,000 miles ago. I have noticed some sluggishness, for the lack of a better word and when i do the procedure to reset the oil change indicator, it does not work and this oil change only has 2637 miles on it.
I typically change oil every 5000 and use Platinum Penzoil Full Sunthetic Oil with new filter every time.

I plan on changing oil tonight but, i have notice a slight metal gurgling sound as if the heat shield on the cat converter is loose but, it is not loose it is coming from like dead center like around where the bottom of the main console and i do not hear it unless i am next to a building and i am slowly accelerating.

My front exhaust pipe has small dent in it where when someone jacked it up in the wrong place caused some damage but i have since been to muffler since and they said it was fine.

Like today when i started it, it almost sound like it was going to back fire through the carborator and I Know it has fuel injection, not a carborator.
It started up right away but, things make me nervous. I got gas a Quik Trip and they guarantee their fuel.

Maybe 5000 is too long on a oil change,? and maybe spark plugs will not last as long either? . I just do not want early detonation.
Please advise. No check Engine light associated with this issue.

My bad, i was turning the key on and then back off and then hitting the pedal 3 times. i just tried it again with ignition to on and it worked. thank you
 

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I would change the spark plugs on a Severe Service schedule, 15K or 20K miles.
How do you know the heat shield is not loose? Did you get under and tug on it? They are aluminum and are fastened to a steel floorpan with steel fasteners, causing galvanic corrosion of the shield. The shield rots out around the fasteners and looks like it's still attached, but will be loose if tugged on or when airflow causes it to move and rattle or flap.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did get under it and look but, not real close. Both Cat converters have been replaced. i guess it is possible that it is loose but did not appear to be.
I was reading somewherevor watching on youtube about the sound made when you have early detonation so i am sort of fixated on this and maybe it really is the heat shield.
20k to 30k really for the spark plugs? i used to put 5000 a month on my taxi but, now it is about half of that because of all of the competion. i do drive it hard and fast sometimes though. I will go ahead and change them again. Thank you Bob.
 

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If there was a problem with the vapor canister, there should be a stored fault code (small or large leak but I forget what the codes would be) and possibly the CEL would be on.

Need to consult the owner's manual for the recommended spark plug change interval. If double platinums are the recommended plug, they are normally good for 100,000 miles under normal conditions (non-taxi use). Under severe conditions it may be sooner - consult the owner's manual. What type of plugs did you install last time?

FWIW - the '00 T&C Ltd 3.8L I use to have used double platinums and I went 148K miles before changing them. Other than a larger than normal gap they showed normal wear.

As to the oil change interval I would go with the severe duty schedule if one is listed in the owner's manual, but every 5,000 with synthetic as you have been doing should be fine. As Allan posted the only way to know if 5,000 mile oil changes are good is to send in a sample for engine oil analysis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If there was a problem with the vapor canister, there should be a stored fault code (small or large leak but I forget what the codes would be) and possibly the CEL would be on.

Need to consult the owner's manual for the recommended spark plug change interval. If double platinums are the recommended plug, they are normally good for 100,000 miles under normal conditions (non-taxi use). Under severe conditions it may be sooner - consult the owner's manual. What type of plugs did you install last time?

FWIW - the '00 T&C Ltd 3.8L I use to have used double platinums and I went 148K miles before changing them. Other than a larger than normal gap they showed normal wear.

As to the oil change interval I would go with the severe duty schedule if one is listed in the owner's manual, but every 5,000 with synthetic as you have been doing should be fine. As Allan posted the only way to know if 5,000 mile oil changes are good is to send in a sample for engine oil analysis.

I used only manufacturer recommended Iridium I think Champion RPZ something or another.
 

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Check plug wires, also. I change wires, cap and ignition rotor at 30K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did change a coil pack last time just one of them but, i di not know it had an ignition rotor? I do not see anything but coil packs and no wires that i recall
 

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I used only manufacturer recommended Iridium I think Champion RPZ something or another.
As long as they were the recommended plugs listed in the owner's manual.

Check plug wires, also. I change wires, cap and ignition rotor at 30K miles.
I doubt the 30K recommendation applies to her vehicle. Aside from my '06 Dodge Ram 1500 (Hemi - copper plugs) every modern vehicle from MY 2000+ I have had, has long interval plug intervals (double platinum plugs) - 100,000 miles. And if her vehicle has coil-on-plug design (like my Hemi) there aren't any plug wires - at least not like the ones in your Daytona.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As long as they were the recommended plugs listed in the owner's manual.



I doubt the 30K recommendation applies to her vehicle. Aside from my '06 Dodge Ram 1500 (Hemi - copper plugs) every modern vehicle from MY 2000+ I have had, has long interval plug intervals (double platinum plugs) - 100,000 miles. And if her vehicle has coil-on-plug design (like my Hemi) there aren't any plug wires - at least not like the ones in your Daytona.
They are the recommemded plugs I have coil packs and no wires. those coil packs are very expensive to change
 

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If the plugs no longer last the recommended 100k (or whatever the severe schedule is) there would be something wrong (oil contamination, engine running rich, etc.) that should be addressed.
 

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Here is a short video on the procedure to reset the oil change indicator. Are you depressing the accelerator pedal fully, releasing fully and completing the procedure within 10 seconds?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFSfT1YK070




Your driving style does tend to more severe: low speed, lots of idling. So you are building contaminants in the engine oil faster than if the vehicle was experiencing more highway miles. Oil change interval of 5000 miles is probably sufficient. But the only real and accurate way to know if a 5000 mile oil change interval is adequate is to send a sample of the engine oil at drain time to a laboratory that specializes in engine oil analysis. Scientific analysis will give wear analysis, contamination buildup and if you ask for TBN (total base number) the lab can tell you if the oil additives are still sufficient to protect the engine or depleted. Cost will be in the $35 - $40 range.

The other aspect of oil change interval is the amount of solid contaminants that get trapped in the filter. You would not want to extend the oil drain interval so long that the filter became completely plugged and the bypass valve opens to allow unfiltered oil to circulate in the engine.

You can monitor spark plug life by removing one of the three on the front bank next to the radiator. If you are getting 300,000 miles from spark plugs that is amazing. Lots of miles on spark plugs tends to wear the center electrode. But as long as you are not experiencing misfire then you are probably OK.
I would not go past the recommended mileage for the plugs you have. When the gap wears to a large gap it takes more current from the ignition coils and that will cause them to heat up.
Several years ago a friend worked at a dealer where they had a Buick towed in because it would not run. It had AC Delco Platinum tipped plugs and the platinum tips came off the plugs. Because the plugs were expensive, he just re-gapped the plugs to the correct gap the dealer did not want to spend the money on a used car.
The next day the same car was towed in again because the coil pack burned out because of the platinum tips falling off the plugs.

Bob this is a distributor-less engine just a coil pack.
 

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It's coil on plug from her description, not even a coil pack.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I would not go past the recommended mileage for the plugs you have. When the gap wears to a large gap it takes more current from the ignition coils and that will cause them to heat up.
Several years ago a friend worked at a dealer where they had a Buick towed in because it would not run. It had AC Delco Platinum tipped plugs and the platinum tips came off the plugs. Because the plugs were expensive, he just re-gapped the plugs to the correct gap the dealer did not want to spend the money on a used car.
The next day the same car was towed in again because the coil pack burned out because of the platinum tips falling off the plugs.

Bob this is a distributor-less engine just a coil pack.
i have changed plugs 3 times in 315k miles and last time was 41k miles ago. i still hear a different noise that normal and i do not think its a heat shield. it is more like a tin sounding gurgling coming from the area under the motor at least it sounds like that, maybe fuel injection i put in on a empty tank a gas Gumout Expert Regane Fuel System cleaner and it helped but upon slow acceleration, i get that noise briefly
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If the plugs no longer last the recommended 100k (or whatever the severe schedule is) there would be something wrong (oil contamination, engine running rich, etc.) that should be addressed.
How could the engine be running rich if there are not any ways for me to have changed the mixture?
 

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I thought they were coil packs? there are no wires, just this square looking thing that has a rubber boot that fits down over the plug?
A coil pack has wires to more than one cylinder. Coil on plug is a coil on each plug which is what it sounds like you are explaining.
 
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