[ImperialCrown]

The mode doors are controlled by an electric stepper motor while the temperature and recirc doors are controlled by cables. You might want to get a factory service manual in order to make it easier to diagnose, disassemble and service the HVAC components.
The doors or actuator gears may simply be binding up.

 

[chuzz]

It seems like someone here recently replaced a stepper motor in something. I think it was A.J. Schriber. Is that right AJ? I know I spelled you last name wrong, so please forgive.

 

[marcpilot1]

The lady i got this car from last name is Graf. She does have a brother who owned the car before she did named Hyman. She is a very kind lady as when i went to get car i didnt realize how far it was and she gave me back 50 bucks for gas to make sure i made it home. She def didnt have to do that. Her family is very friendly too. Im not sure who A J Schriber is. A stepper motor may have been replaced in something but I dont think it was this car or these folks. Sorry.

 

[marcpilot1]

Yes, Imperial is exactly right. Would it be possible that the controller piece with the 4 knobs on it is bad? Imperialcrown is correct, one knob does have the cable going to recirc and other knob has the cable going to the red/blue for temp control. These 2 cable knobs are both are working fine. And the other 2 knobs have wires going to them. One knob is for all the settings you want, feet, defrost, face, face/feet, etc, etc. And the last knob is for the fan speed. Fan speed is fine. Only one thats not working is the selector for face, defrost, feet, defrost etc. Air automatically only goes through the defrost and feet at all times. It doesnt matter where i put the selector. Face wont blow out of the vents like its supposed to. When set to face it actually blows through the feet and defrost. Now, when I unhooked the plug of wires going to the selector knob for face, feet, defrost, defrost/feet, etc, etc, it still blew only through the defrost and feet. And when I put a simple tester light in the plug going to the fan speed control, it lights right up. But, when I put the test light in the plug with the set of wires going to the selector for feet, defrost, face, face/feet/ etc, not one wire makes test light light up. Phew, thats a lot of writing that half of it you all probably didnt need to read. I just didnt want to leave anything out. I sure hope someone can understand what im trying to say. In other words, you think the 4 knob face plate needs replacing or something else?

 

[ImperialCrown]

The BCM may also have an issue (it can store fault codes), so I'm not ready to take a guess yet. More diagnosis is needed.


CONTROL MODULE

The control switch and timer circuit may be tested in the vehicle with or without scan tool (DRBIII®)


TESTING WITHOUT SCAN TOOL

1. 
   
2. Remove the control switch from console and disconnect control switch HVAC Control Module Connectors
3. 
   
4. Using a ohmmeter, check leads between Pins 5 (red wire) and 8 (black/pink wire) of the 8-Way light colored connector. Turn the control module to each position shown on Control Module Test table. The resistance reading should be within the specifications shown. If not OK, replace the control module. If OK, check:
   • Blown fuse
   • 
     
   • Cut wire
   • 
     
   • Poor ground
   • 
     
   • Poor connection
   • 
     
   • Defective BCM
   • 
     
   • Bulkhead connector inoperative

SWITCH POSITION

OHM RANGE


Panel

828 to 856 ohms


Bi-Level

1.279 to 1.315 K ohns


Floor

2.302 to 2.358 K ohms


Mix

5.202 to 5.318 K ohms


Defrost

99.5 to 101.5 K ohms







NOTE: If battery voltage is low or not sensed at the actuator/motor for less than a (60) second interval, the actuator/motor will be out of calibration. Remove the M1 (I.O.D.) fuse for a minimum of (60) seconds. The actuator/motor will then self calibrate itself upon reinstallation of fuse.

The mode door actuator is an electric motor. It mechanically positions the A/C unit panel/bi-level door and the floor/defrost door. Prior to part replacement, re-calibration of the HVAC actuator is recommended. Calibration is performed by disconnecting the battery negative cable or the removal of the instrument panel M-1 fuse. Electrical power should be re-established after (60) seconds which will automatically initiate the software calibration procedure. If this procedure fails, it will be necessary to replace the mode door actuator/motor. The mode door actuator/motor is not serviceable and must be replaced if found to be defective.

The mode door actuator is located on the upper left side of the A/C- Heater housing Mode Door Motor Location


REMOVAL

1. 
   
2. Disconnect battery negative cable.
3. 
   
4. Remove left underpanel silencer/duct.
5. 
   
6. Remove electrical connection on actuator Mode Motor Connector
7. 
   
8. Remove actuator retaining screws. Then pull actuator straight down. Upon removal, note the shaft position of the actuator, because the shaft on this motor is keyed. When installing new actuator, its shaft must be positioned in the same location.

INSTALLATION

For installation, reverse the above procedures

 

[chuzz]

I wasn't saying that the car may have previously belonged to AJ, I was just commenting that I think he recently had this same problem and had to replace a stepper motor. I thought he might be able to advise you as to how he went about it and how difficult a job it may have been.

 

[marcpilot1]

ohhh! Sorry bout that Chuzz. I didnt understand. But anyway, I may be able to get some assistance there as well is what you youre saying. And thank you too, very much. I'm def not the brightest bulb in the house. Thanks again for help Chuzz!

 

[marcpilot1]

Man, youre prob not gonna like this question but when it says check the leads between pin 5 and pin 8, what do I do? I have the actron ohmmeter. Its the cheap 21 dollar one but its digital. It also has 3 inputs. one you always put the black or negative lead into it and the other 2 inputs say 10 ADC(10A max unfused) and the other hole says V mA. In between the V and the mA theres a horseshoe looking symbol. But those are the 2 inputs for the red wire. The red goes into one of them. Then the meter itself has a section labeled DCV with settings for 5 numbers. 20 - 2000m . Off Then ACV 750 and 200. Then DCA 200, 2000, 20 and and 200m. Then theres a couple other single settings to dial the meter to like red 10A and white FE and red with an arrow pointing to the right. All i nered to know is do i dial it to the DCV, ACV or DCA i think. Then I determine the what the outcome should be and dial it to that numbert or above that number. And again, I think. But you said to check leadfs at pin 5 and 8 then do each setting on the control module. Im sure that is to see if its a bad module. I can do that but i kind of need to know where the red and black tips go to. Pin 5 has the red wire. Pin 8 has the black/pink wire. And on the 20 diollar OHM meter I know the black lead has to go into the COM port but the red has those 2 options. The 10 ADC and V mA. Then the numbers to dial it to. But if you dont feel like explaining it, I completely understand. This has to be as green as it gets for ya. Sorry bout that. But if you can help, you know how much I appreciate things you all do for me. THANKS!! Marc-

 

[ImperialCrown]

The red probe should plug into the horseshoe (ohms) symbol jack and the black probe should go into the (-) or common jack. The meter selector knob should also point to a horseshoe symbol (omega) for measuring resistance.
If you Google your Actron meter model #, it may come up with an instruction manual.

 

[Jerry Simcik]

Does your cruise control work?? If not, you have a vacuum leak. If the cruise works, then I think you're on the right track...