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alright forum, you and me are ganna get this valiant back to running s

10452 Views 41 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Ellobo
so my valiant is in a state of moderate disrepair, and has been for a few months, but now i'm about to come out of school and now have the time and money to make this baby roll. but before we get fixing heres a quick recap of how i got here:

alright, about two years ago my mom was looking to buy my first car and stumbled upon a guy who drove this sweet old 1969 plymouth valiant signet 200 (225 slant 6, white, 4 door, almost all original). we bought it from them right away and it served us well through my senior year, i learned how to change oil and do some very basic stuff in it, wooed the ladies with it. it ran super well through the winters and all the way up til about 6 months ago.

the first thing that happened was the little connector to the horn melted a little bit one summer day and made it so that the horn would sound whenever some internal steering wheel business would touch when i turned the wheel. but we just unplugged the horn and chugged on.

later my mom noticed the muffler was hanging a little bit low, and naturally, as a teenager, did nothing about, figuring the problem would solve itself. of course the hanger had broken and eventually the muffler split, so i just reattached what i could and drove it super loud. (i'm not proud of that).

eventually, the alternator went out, and, foolishly, i replaced it myself. i mounted and reattached it right, but the new alternator was missing what i later found out to be the grounding plug, i got the car running again noticed the alternator output was jumping really high on the reader and again, nievely, i just ignored it. and basically, right around when i went more than 30 miles an hour i blew the distributor and again the car was down.

at this point i was just ganna take it to a fix it shop. but my mom (a school teacher) said one of her student's dad was a mechanic and they would hook us up with cheap work. "what could go wrong?" i asked myself. "alot" answered the mechanic.

to shorten what happened with the mechanic, i was there the first day and he installed a grounding plug on the alternator, which was cool. but then nothing happened the second through sixtieth or so days, despite my attempts to help or at least inquire what was going on. it got really tension-us, and then one day the car was back at my house! and it ran! but when i went to but in my spare key, i noticed he had replaced the tumbler because (i later found out), he lost the key, so he just replaced it, i immediately looked under the seat where the key was, angry.

i drove it around again and fried the new distributor he put in there, cause he didn't fix the source of the problem.


so you've read this far, thank you. that brings us up to about a few weeks ago. i replace the old distributor and the voltage regulator, but that doesn't seem to be regulating the alternator output at all.


now for my questions in what i think is descending order of importance:

also, the distributor clamp he used is for the V8 version of the car, so i need to know which clamp would work for this distributor:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Plymouth/Valiant/A1_Cardone/Distributor/1969/A1303610.html
first and foremost. you tell me which and i'll buy it.

since i replace the old distributor and the voltage regulator,what else needs to be replaced so that i can actually regulate that voltage, or at least not have the output spike when i accelerate.

i saw the guy who creates replica exhausts for the old mopars, does anyone have any opinions about them? personal experience? things i should know about it?

do you have anything i can clarify? i'll post some pictures of it tomorrow, and thanks for any help in advance, also for reading all of this, it was a long post.
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Is the distributor an electronic ignition conversion, or breaker point? You can't destroy a breaker point ignition distributor, or any distributor, for that matter, with excessive voltage. You can burn the points or the condenser, or the magnetic pickup.

You need to put a voltmeter on the battery at idle and rev it a little and give us the readings. Sounds like the regulator is not properly wired.
 

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That's an electronic voltage regulator for 1970 and up. If you have had yours converted, fine; if it's original, you need the older mechanical points-type voltage regulator.

Do you have breaker point ignition (the original setup) or an electronic ignition conversion?

Not sure what you mean by the distributor 'hanging out of the hole'. Is it seated fully, so that the clamp plate is against the block? If not, don't crank it, or you will strip the gears off the distributor and ruin it.

These distributors have a plate bolted to the distributor, slotted for adjustment, and a bolt goes through the other slot into the block to hold the distributor down. Do you have that plate on your distributor?
 

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well, alright, i guess a previous owner had the regulator converted, because that's the one i have in the car right now.

so next question would be: how would i tell if its been converted to an electronic ignition?

and the distributor is fully seated in the hole, but the plate used for the previous one or at least the one the guy left in there doesn't fit onto the distributor at all.

that's what all the clamp links were about
If you have the original type breaker point ignition, the distributor looks like this under the distributor cap, and has only one wire out, to the coil:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/ignition-system-points.gif&imgrefurl=http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system4.htm&h=223&w=244&sz=10&tbnid=4k6D1gDr5DmESM:&tbnh=89&tbnw=97&prev=/search%3Fq%3D%2522breaker%2Bpoint%2Bignition%2522%2Bimage%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=%22breaker+point+ignition%22+image&docid=YAxbxc5_dk-C-M&hl=en&sa=X&ei=ZLWOT7PCCaXI0QGm-5CHBA&ved=0CEcQ9QEwCw&dur=234

If it's electronic ignition, it looks like this inside:
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0301_mopar_electronic_ignition_system/photo_02.html

There are no clamps on either distributor, there is a slotted plate that bolts to the underside of the distributor, that also has a slot at the other end to bolt to the engine. Notice the plate at the "7 o'clock" position in the photo. Your distributor should have this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/225-SLANT-SIX-ELECTRONIC-DISTRIBUTOR-ORIGINAL-MOPAR-/140739912887?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20c4c0a4b7
 

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Yes, you have a breaker-point ignition distributor. But that last photo is an electronic ignition module, which someone must have attached in an attempt to convert the car. The fact that it's not hooked up says that they didn't finish or were not successful.

I can't see from that photo if the hold-down plate is on that distributor. This is a view from the bottom looking up, showing the hold-down plate that you should have:



So, the points should be gapped so that when they are fully open (right on one of the lobes), the gap is .017 to .023 inches, ideally .020. Then you set the ignition timing, which for your car should probably be 2 1/2 degrees before top dead center. Then you set the idle mixture (back off the screw 2 turns from fully in, and very gradually turn in until it just starts to stumble slightly, and back out just barely enough to smooth it out - should be about 1 1/2 turns from fully seated). Then set idle in drive to 550 RPM.
 

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Far easier to find one in the junkyard, guaranteed to work, probably faster. Any slant-6 of any vintage would do. They made millions of them for 27 years.
 

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Many of them are not at all intimidating. There are quite a few that will not let you past the front desk. You tell them what you want and they fetch it then and there, or have you come back in a few hours to pick it up. Many are computerized to some extent, so they can tell you if they have the part.
 

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I can understand his frustration. When Cash For Clunkers came about, and the scrap metal prices went up, every yard near me crushed everything older than 2000 and cleaned out their lots. Some even closed afterward. I can't find any Chrysler products here older than about 2000.
 

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You could always buy a new slant six distributor. More money, but it works.
 

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I don't think that will fit or work on the slant-6 distributor.
 
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