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Discussion Starter #1
The reason I'm asking is because I have a neighbor with a 2003 CLK430 vert with a V-8 engine and he's telling me he just paid over $800 for an oil change and spark plugs. I told him he got ripped off and he claims that a Mercedes HAS to have Mercedes oil and oil filters only, or the car will blow up. I told him Mobil 1 full synthetic oil meets the MB229.3 specs and their filters are top quality too and for $350 I could have hooked him up and made some very good money off him. He thinks I'm full of crap. As for the spark plugs, I'm thinking Denso Iridium Long Lifes, part # SK16PR-L11. About $12 per plug. What say you guys that have a Mercedes? Is there a special procedure for changing the plugs and oil in a Mercedes?
 

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A friend of mine's brother paid $700 for an oil change on his Aston-Martin. The shop technicians all wanted his autograph after that. :D
A stipulation of a leased exotic vehicle may require that all scheduled maintenance be performed by an authorized dealer service facility in order to meet in compliance of the terms of the lease. If he violates the terms of the lease, the lease could be cancelled and ownership suddenly could get expensive for him.
This way, when the car is turned back in, they selling dealer can always say that is was '100% factory serviced'.
I guess that one doesn't work on their own car if they make that amount of money. You or I certainly couldn't or wouldn't want to do this. We work on our own cars. I do my own work so I know that it is done the way I want it done.
Using factory parts may be kinda forced upon you as there isn't much OEM support for these specialty cars in the aftermarket.
I do agree that meeting the factory requirements (like Chrysler's material standards number - MS #) should be adhered to and if the vehicle is still under some kind of warranty, save your records and receipts.
The Sprinters and Crossfires were all Mercedes-Benz and we only used Mercedes-Benz parts on them.
...or it will blow up. I will have to remember that one. LOL.
 

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He's a millionaire, so money's not really a problem. He bought the car back in December for $2,800 and then spent another $8,000 on getting it painted, a new top and some interior and upholstery work done, along with a new set of headlights. He said the MAIN reason he bought it was because he doesn't like his wife driving his Ford diesel truck. He loves to fish and if she's gone in his truck, he can't hook up his boat and take off if he feels like it. I honestly don't understand how such a mentality every made as much money as he CLAIMS to have, but he's always got a pocket full of it. They're heading back to Canada on Wednesday morning and I'll be happy to see him go. His wife is a loon and so miserable that she makes up stuff about other people here in the hood and spreads rumors. I hope to put my house up for sale and move before they come back, to be honest with you. Otherwise, I'll do the stuff he doesn't want to do and make some more money off him this coming winter. He even admitted to me that after he dropped the car off, that he and his wife went to a restaurant a short distance up the road and a few minutes after they go there, he saw the "foreign car mechanic" drive into the Valvoline quick change oil place across the street in their car! Gee, I wonder what he had done to it? LOL
 

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I had an R class which the Mercedes loyalist hate. It was a good car. The Mann fleece filter and Mobil 0w40 is the way to go. They use good big filters and have a large crankcase oil capacity (9qts). Bosch or ngk for the plugs, they are kinda pricey specialty plugs, but at every 100k it isn't bad. If you do your own work the cost isn't much more due to the extended internals.
 

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Older daughter owns a 2008 GL550. She uses the World Bank for unscheduled repair loans. Been that way since her left front wheel bearing failed at 41,000 miles.
 

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Before bragging about how much money you’d save, I’d want to know how many labor hours are involved in changing the plugs. It may not be an easy job, I don’t know.
 

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A friend has a '15 Porsche Cayman. Oil change $400. I showed him my vacuum oil changer and just laughed. I could have done it much cheaper as long as you can get at the filter. This is why I won't own high end German cars. Yes they look and drive great but they have been designed with little concern for ownership costs. Most people lease them for this reason. The oil change on our new '17 Wrangler (did not use the vac pump on this one, drain plug very easy to get at) took about 20 min. New style oil filter easy to change but not crazy about plastic housing.
 

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Not a dealership of any kind, Doug. Just an independent shop that advertises they work on "foreign cars". Moot point now as they're leaving tomorrow morning and the car has been stored for the next 7-8 months. Anyone interested in buying a house in Lake Wales, Florida? $125,000 will get you mine.
 

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Before bragging about how much money you’d save, I’d want to know how many labor hours are involved in changing the plugs. It may not be an easy job, I don’t know.
Can't be much more than changing 16 plugs on a Hemi - probably less. The one time I had the plugs changed by the dealer, the labor alone was only $194. The plugs were another $45. That shop took the owner for a ride - IMHO.
 

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Having worked at a Dodge/Mercedes/Jaguar/MG/Colt dealership, at the time tuneup parts for a Mercedes were actually cheaper than for a Dodge, as for accessibility, old B-block MOPAR engines beat all for plugs being a royal PITA. When I had my shop I hated seeing one come in unless it was for a major tune up (carburetor rebuild as part of it) then you had time for it to cool enough to get the plugs out and still have skin left. Then there was running new plug wires, all 7 feet (I measured it!) on #7 plug on a 413 or 440.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Having worked at a Dodge/Mercedes/Jaguar/MG/Colt dealership, at the time tuneup parts for a Mercedes were actually cheaper than for a Dodge, as for accessibility, old B-block MOPAR engines beat all for plugs being a royal PITA. When I had my shop I hated seeing one come in unless it was for a major tune up (carburetor rebuild as part of it) then you had time for it to cool enough to get the plugs out and still have skin left. Then there was running new plug wires, all 7 feet (I measured it!) on #7 plug on a 413 or 440.
What about on a 383? I worked on 3 of those and a 413. I didn't think they were all that bad, but I was a teenager back in those days. BUT that #8 plug was a real turd to get to, wasn't it? LOL
 

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What about on a 383? I worked on 3 of those and a 413. I didn't think they were all that bad, but I was a teenager back in those days. BUT that #8 plug was a real turd to get to, wasn't it? LOL
Wonder how many dealer techs changed all 8 plugs on the 265 cu in V8 they stuffed into a Chevy Monza? Not many, I'll bet. To access the passenger side rear plug required lifting the engine to access. It was common for the dealers to charge you for changing 8 plugs and only actually change 7. I had a '79 Monza, but it had the 2.5L 4 cylinder (Iron Duke).
 

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What about on a 383? I worked on 3 of those and a 413. I didn't think they were all that bad, but I was a teenager back in those days. BUT that #8 plug was a real turd to get to, wasn't it? LOL
#8 wasn't the real PITA, it was #7, rear on the driver's side, between the location, power brake booster and steering column, you had to damn near be double jointed, or have a lift. I had a couple of them in my shop that still had a Mopar plug with engine color paint.
 
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