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anyone in wisconsin that knows 1985 turbo dodge 2.2 ill pay cash stalls out and gets hard to start and dies when put in gear its automatic
anyone in wisconsin that knows 1985 turbo dodge 2.2 ill pay cash
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Always check fault codes.
Troubleshooting Chrysler Two-Digit Computer Fault Codes
Troubleshooting Chrysler Two-Digit Computer Fault Codes by Bob O'Neill and Bob Lincoln These pages helps to describe the fault codes for the Chrysler electronic fuel injection engine control units (ECU) for 2.2L and 2.5L engines (and, in many cases, V6 engines) from 1984 through 1994. You...
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Did this just start happening, and was running OK before? Or is this a new acquisition? Does it do it when cold, hot or both?
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does it hot and cold and no hasnt run good for a long timeAlways check fault codes.
Troubleshooting Chrysler Two-Digit Computer Fault Codes
Troubleshooting Chrysler Two-Digit Computer Fault Codes by Bob O'Neill and Bob Lincoln These pages helps to describe the fault codes for the Chrysler electronic fuel injection engine control units (ECU) for 2.2L and 2.5L engines (and, in many cases, V6 engines) from 1984 through 1994. You...
Did this just start happening, and was running OK before? Or is this a new acquisition? Does it do it when cold, hot or both?
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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What is the car's service history? What has been tried so far?
Any 'Power Loss' or 'Power Limited' light on in the dash?
Possibly begin with a tune-up? Spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor, plug wires?
Use Champion RN12YC Copper Plus spark plugs.
The only adjustment would be timing.
Fairly easy to learn on YouTube & do it yourself? The library likely has a manual with pictures.
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Any 'Power Loss' or 'Power Limited' light on in the dash?
Possibly begin with a tune-up? Spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor, plug wires?
Use Champion RN12YC Copper Plus spark plugs.
The only adjustment would be timing.
Fairly easy to learn on YouTube & do it yourself? The library likely has a manual with pictures.
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no i am just busy looking for a little help with it
As Bob posted, do the key dance (turn the ignition to on [do not engage starter), then off, on, off, on. Then count the flashes of the power loss, power limited or check engine light. These will be two-digit codes. 12 is Battery has been disconnected and 55 is end of codes.
If they haven't been replaced recently, I recommend replacing the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. It will give you a good base to work from. Suggest checking the timing (you'll need a timing light and be sure to disconnect the coolant temperature sensor while checking the timing - the power loss/power limited light will come on, but once reconnected and restarted it should go out.).
Depending on how it is running, possible bad components are the TPS (throttle position sensor), O2 sensor, coolant temperature sensor, AIS and MAP sensor. Possibly the EGR. Before replacing any of those it is best to get the fault codes from the key dance, so you have an idea of where to check. Don't throw the parts cannon at it.
Check all the vacum lines. The OEM vacum lines are plastic and over time will get hard and crack from exposure to the engine heat. Replace as necessary. Also check all wiring connections and the wiring itself for corrosion, breaks, nicks or any other damage. It is a 38-year-old vehicle.
If they haven't been replaced recently, I recommend replacing the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. It will give you a good base to work from. Suggest checking the timing (you'll need a timing light and be sure to disconnect the coolant temperature sensor while checking the timing - the power loss/power limited light will come on, but once reconnected and restarted it should go out.).
Depending on how it is running, possible bad components are the TPS (throttle position sensor), O2 sensor, coolant temperature sensor, AIS and MAP sensor. Possibly the EGR. Before replacing any of those it is best to get the fault codes from the key dance, so you have an idea of where to check. Don't throw the parts cannon at it.
Check all the vacum lines. The OEM vacum lines are plastic and over time will get hard and crack from exposure to the engine heat. Replace as necessary. Also check all wiring connections and the wiring itself for corrosion, breaks, nicks or any other damage. It is a 38-year-old vehicle.
In addition to what Doug has suggested above, save the old plugs and mark which cylinder they came from. The color and condition of the plugs can tell you a lot. Either search on Google or post pictures of the plugs here, especially pay attention if the plugs look different between cylinders.
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i think you are the one time poster you just dont answer now
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LMAO!! I've been a member since 2004. BUT, you're absolutely right, I don't know the answer. BECAUSE I DON'T LIVE WHERE YOU DO!!! Hahahahahahaha! Have you noticed that NOBODY else has given you a location to go to?
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