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Replaced ignition switch...computer....crankshaft position sensor...camshaft sensor...O2 sensor....coil....ASD relay and repaired three red wire splice and have 40 LBS fuel pressure at test port. I turn key to on position and get power to coil for a second an then it is lost. Fuel relay clicks on also. I have continuity on all wires associated with ASD relay to computer and coil. Any ideas?
 

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If you turn the ignition key to RUN and do NOT continue turning to the START position, the powertrain control module (PCM) engages the ASD relay to provide power to spark coil, fuel pump relay, etc for about 1 second. If no signal is received by the PCM indicating crankshaft rotation, the the PCM de-energizes the ASD relay. This is normal operation.

What is the issue? Do you continue to turn the ignition key to the START position, the starter is spinning the engine and the engine will not start and run? If yes then you need to check the wiring between the PCM and the crankshaft position sensor and the PCM and the camshaft position sensor. The PCM is not receiving the proper signal from either or both of these sensors.so as to energize the ASD relay continuously.

Autozone.com has useful electrical diagrams under Repair Help-->Wiring Diagrams-->FIG 23 1993 5.2L that can assist in wire tracing.
 

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Yes ...Hi allen....thought once everything is on line and key in run position battery voltage should continue at coil battery feed terminal. Have just disconected the 60 way and went thru and checked continuty on all the pins on the conector side. Not getting continuty on pins 1 thru 7 and 10 and 21 22 24 25 27 39 40 41 43 44 45 47 59 and 60. I do have power to # 3 and both power grounds have continuty.
 

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Yes ...Hi allen....thought once everything is on line and key in run position battery voltage should continue at coil battery feed terminal. Have just disconected the 60 way and went thru and checked continuty on all the pins on the conector side. Not getting continuty on pins 1 thru 7 and 10 and 21 22 24 25 27 39 40 41 43 44 45 47 59 and 60. I do have power to # 3 and both power grounds have continuty.
Let's get some background information. Was the truck running and suddenly stopped running or would not start? Has any maintenance work been performed that could disturb any component or wiring in the engine compartment?

How are you checking for continuity? Have you removed the 60 way connector at the powertrain control module (PCM) and touched one lead of the diagnostic meter to a particular numbered pin and the other lead of the diagnostic meter to the appropriate wire at the sensor? It is difficult to believe that virtually all circuits in the wiring harness to the PCM have failed and lost continuity at the same moment in time.
 

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Seems we have two members with similar problems on the same thread. Can someone separate the posts by bobcat614 and Tony Lopez so they'll be easier to address? After having had two brain surgeries, my comprehensive skills are virtually non existent. I have to reread and go back over things multiple times in order to try to figure things out. I hope this doesn't bother anyone that I ask this.
 
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Yes ...Hi allen....thought once everything is on line and key in run position battery voltage should continue at coil battery feed terminal. Have just disconected the 60 way and went thru and checked continuty on all the pins on the conector side. Not getting continuty on pins 1 thru 7 and 10 and 21 22 24 25 27 39 40 41 43 44 45 47 59 and 60. I do have power to # 3 and both power grounds have continuty.
It's still not clear to me what the original issue is. Can you please start from the beginning as to what went wrong, and the maintenance or repair history around that time?
Have you checked for fault codes?
 

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Seems we have two members with similar problems on the same thread. Can someone separate the posts by bobcat614 and Tony Lopez so they'll be easier to address? After having had two brain surgeries, my comprehensive skills are virtually non existent. I have to reread and go back over things multiple times in order to try to figure things out. I hope this doesn't bother anyone that I ask this.
The new posts are here:
1993 dodge dakota shuts down
This topic has the old problem from 2012.
 

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SOLVED by accident. At some point I had been shut down and was under the hood poking around. I saw a connection on the firewall with the plastic melted. I was going to clean the connection and removed it. after scraping off some rust, (evidently had gotten wet), I was called away & just left it disconnected. Since then I came here and found some diagnostics to try out the next time it shut down. It didn't and that is the only thing I had changed. turns out to be a heater/AC resister. You were right, a bad connection.
 
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