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Discussion Starter #1
Hi yall,
I am having a problem with my 1996 Dodge B2500 conversion van, 318. When I start it up cold, it runs perfectly. As it warms up it will stall and after a second or two, start running again. If I'm at a stop it will die, but start right back up. After about 20 minutes it will run perfectly and give no more problems unless I let it cool off for several hours. I've replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition pick-up plate, and was looking at the coil, even though it checks out allright.It has several codes in memory, but they all seem to be nonsense codes(fuel pump relay, camshaft sensor, trans temp sensor, hall effect) and to me it looks like smec but I don't know for sure.
I've worked most of my life on GM products so I'm a little out of my league here. Any ideas?
Thanks, Gayle.
 

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You want to catch this when it's acting up for diagnosis. Try to see if it's losing spark or fuel or both. A fuel pressure gauge and noid light with the doghouse off for a road test will help.
Don't discount the fault codes that you have. They may be truthful. The freeze-frame or snapshot information along with the codes will help place the times and operating conditions to help see if they are real.
There were a couple of PCM flash updates to rectify fault code sets/driveability concerns also.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/18-03-97.htm
http://www.scribd.com/doc/56744957/Chrysler-Pcm-Flash-Availability
 

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[sub]Check the grounds for PCM,relays ect. It may be a ASD relay but it would normally get worse with heat. [/sub]

[sub]May have a fuel pump in tank going bad just starting. I would check the Coolant temp sensor. This is on the thermostat.[/sub]

[sub]Best to check with scantool datastream but you can with effort check it with doghouse off,when it acts up at operating[/sub]

[sub]temp take the Ohms reading of CTS. It should be low ohms range. According to my manual it should read about 650-[/sub]

[sub]720 ohms when van is at 200+F. It may be staying too rich or lean.- Check your relays both fuel pump and the ASD relay.[/sub]

[sub]Reason I put emphisis on CTS is becuse of the temp and cool off then does it again. Seen the CTS itself be fautly or the[/sub]

[sub]actual connector to it. Check connector for terminal integrity. Its right on near the thermostat housing two wire sensor.[/sub]

[sub]May need manual there may be two one is your CTS to PCM, for cold enrichment ect, the other is for temp gauage and light.[/sub]

[sub]Make sure if you have two,check be sure its the CTS to PCM. Check all grounds. bad grounds can do strange things.[/sub]

[sub]Jake[/sub]
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the thoughts, I found a bad wire on the crank sensor, run like a champ foe a while. Now it's starting to act up again, different this time, so here I go again!
Gayle
 

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DO NOT FEED THE TROLLS!
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No CEL? Might want to check for codes anyway...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nope, no trouble codes, found bare wires on 3 wire plug on side of trans were shorting. Taped them up and everything seems good. I kind of wonder if trans was kicking out and not engine. It just happened cruising down the road, like a big clunk then go again. Feels good now I'll let you know if it happens again. For now it works good. I do appreciate all the ideas and help. Gayle
 
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