1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
·
17,312 Posts
That 'ticking' may have been a relay in the PDC (underhood fuse/relay box). The Infinity speaker relay may also be inside here.
For diagnosis, you might want to try gently poking and prodding the harness and connectors in the area next to the battery and PDC, maybe with the key-on, engine-off. Listen for a reaction.
Some vehicles had corrosion issues underneath the PDC and in this general area due to the proximity of the acid-misting battery (especially if your old battery was actually leaking).
To power up the vehicle with the PDC upside-down, the battery will have to be taken out of the way but you can then power it with jumper cables to the battery terminals. Wrap them in rags so that they don't short together or to the body.
Expose, rinse and blow dry the connectors. Wires that appear 'lumpy' or kinked may have the internal conductor corroded open from acid getting into a pinhole. If a gentle pull stretches the wire, you know that it is broken inside. The copper may now be green paste. Splice and weather (acid)-proof with insulating heat-shrink tubing as necessary. Repack connectors with die-electric (silicone) grease. Wrap harness wires back together with electrical tape.
For diagnosis, you might want to try gently poking and prodding the harness and connectors in the area next to the battery and PDC, maybe with the key-on, engine-off. Listen for a reaction.
Some vehicles had corrosion issues underneath the PDC and in this general area due to the proximity of the acid-misting battery (especially if your old battery was actually leaking).
To power up the vehicle with the PDC upside-down, the battery will have to be taken out of the way but you can then power it with jumper cables to the battery terminals. Wrap them in rags so that they don't short together or to the body.
Expose, rinse and blow dry the connectors. Wires that appear 'lumpy' or kinked may have the internal conductor corroded open from acid getting into a pinhole. If a gentle pull stretches the wire, you know that it is broken inside. The copper may now be green paste. Splice and weather (acid)-proof with insulating heat-shrink tubing as necessary. Repack connectors with die-electric (silicone) grease. Wrap harness wires back together with electrical tape.