[00Molavi]

This is for our 2000 SWB 3.3 with around 153K miles. Has newer alternator/starter since 110K miles midlife crisis package.
Yesterday I noted some corrosion around the battery's negative lead and the car's start was not as strong. Closer look and there was a tiny leak from the bottom of the battery. It was a costco battery, just out of the 36 month full warranty by a few days, so I go there and get a 60% refund and buy a new one. Here is where the problem started;

I put the new battery in (no mistakes with the leads), turn the ignition to on, hear the fuel pump priming, start and the starter is engaging/kicking in with full power but the car does not start. Then when I release the starter (ignition back to on), I hear a constant ticking from the fuse box next to the battery. This happened a few times and I kept checking my work with the leads and the wires and all seemed fine. The car finally started and the ticking went away. When it was not starting, I was almost sure I had no spark.

Also, now the front driver side radio on the quirky infinity sound system started buzzying on & off. It goes away when I turn it off & on. Usually comes back with the turn signal use. Not sure if this is all related (BCM?, etc).

Sorry for the lengthy post. Any thoughts appreciated.

 

[ImperialCrown]

That 'ticking' may have been a relay in the PDC (underhood fuse/relay box). The Infinity speaker relay may also be inside here.
For diagnosis, you might want to try gently poking and prodding the harness and connectors in the area next to the battery and PDC, maybe with the key-on, engine-off. Listen for a reaction.
Some vehicles had corrosion issues underneath the PDC and in this general area due to the proximity of the acid-misting battery (especially if your old battery was actually leaking).
To power up the vehicle with the PDC upside-down, the battery will have to be taken out of the way but you can then power it with jumper cables to the battery terminals. Wrap them in rags so that they don't short together or to the body.
Expose, rinse and blow dry the connectors. Wires that appear 'lumpy' or kinked may have the internal conductor corroded open from acid getting into a pinhole. If a gentle pull stretches the wire, you know that it is broken inside. The copper may now be green paste. Splice and weather (acid)-proof with insulating heat-shrink tubing as necessary. Repack connectors with die-electric (silicone) grease. Wrap harness wires back together with electrical tape.

 

[00Molavi]

Thanks ImperialCrown; I think it was my mistake taking this job lightly and doing it in the dark and in the costco's parking light. I thought just wiping the leads should take care of it, afterall it was working just fine with the old battery.
I gave it more thought last night and today just cleaned both terminals well with hot water & sanding. I think the negative lead was the bad one. So far the problem seems to have resolved.
Changing a battery is such a simple job, yet stuff comes up.
For now the wife drives the newer car so I can be sure that she is not stranded.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Of course and so simple! Any battery diagnosis must start with clean and secure battery terminals.

 

[chuzz]

Back when I worked for Autozone, I had a customer come in and purchase a battery from me and then an hour later come back with it and tell me it was no good. He said the car wouldn't even click with the "new" battery in it. I removed the protective black plastic cover off the negative battery post and showed him where he'd clamped his cable over it without removing it. He didn't say a word, just grabbed the battery and walked out. A few days later, he came back and said everything worked as it should. LMAO