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Discussion Starter #1
This van has every type of electronic device known to man. 2 tvs....the mygig sound system, electric doors and hatch and sunroof. Had the battery tested several times and it checks out but several times after only listening to the stereo for ten-fifteen minutes the battery is dead. Do these new high wattage sound systems draw that much power or maybe I just need a higher cranking amps battery with more reserve power.

What you guys think and has anyone else experienced this ? Thanks......
 

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Make sure you are in the "ACC" position, and not in the "RUN" position!
 

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In the ACC position, you should get at least a few hours of safe radio listening power, with DVD maybe an hour.
Have the battery reserve capacity 'load tested' at your local auto parts store. It is often a free service (it sells batteries).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
In the ACC position, you should get at least a few hours of safe radio listening power, with DVD maybe an hour.
Have the battery reserve capacity 'load tested' at your local auto parts store. It is often a free service (it sells batteries).


Done that twice. It passed both times....
 

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To explore this further, I'd put an ammeter between the battery post and battery terminal to see how much current these accessories are drawing.
Start with the ign off to measure IOD (ign off draw), then turn the key to ACC with the radio off to measure that, then turn the radio on and measure that.
You can then play a DVD to see how much more current that takes.
I'd be interested in knowing. A 0-10 amp scale should be plenty if you don't crank the starter and DRL's (if equipped) are off.
 

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Are you charging it on 2AH with a charger when it goes dead? If your battery is being fully charged each time, I would suspect the battery is bad, tested or not. Also keep in mind that a lot of start stop/short trips can be hard on the battery as it doesn't get a chance to recover from the starter. With all the new electronic demands and accessories switched on immediately after start up, the battery has to "wait" to get it's charge.
 

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The factory battery is the cheapest one that Chrysler could get away with. You may want to consider a higher capacity unit. I have the biggest one I could find in my 94 GC. Just my $0.02.

FredB
 

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dude don't feel bad my battery started to give up the ghost this morning.
Mick
 

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The factory battery is the cheapest one that Chrysler could get away with. You may want to consider a higher capacity unit. I have the biggest one I could find in my 94 GC. Just my $0.02.

FredB
I don't know if "aftermarket" batteries are much better. Our previous minivan, a 2000 T&C Ltd (loaded w/accessories), would require a replacement battery every 45 months or so. And these were 60-72 month rated batteries.

To date the Mopar battery in my '06 Ram has been fine though I expect to replace it this coming year. My daughter's '05 Neon is on its original battery but I suspect it too will need replacing soon.

I second IC's suggestion. Need to find out how many amps are being drawn and where from to isolate the issue.

FYI - I've had "bad" batteries "pass" the load test at Advance and AZ. Could be a battery that is bad enough to discharge quickly but good enough to pass the tests.
 

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To explore this further, I'd put an ammeter between the battery post and battery terminal to see how much current these accessories are drawing.
Start with the ign off to measure IOD (ign off draw), then turn the key to ACC with the radio off to measure that, then turn the radio on and measure that.
You can then play a DVD to see how much more current that takes.
I'd be interested in knowing. A 0-10 amp scale should be plenty if you don't crank the starter and DRL's (if equipped) are off.
This would be the best course of action. My preference would be to use a clamp-on Amp meter on the main battery terminal ground wire and observe the current draw initially and after all timers have timed out. Just the inside ceiling lights draw quite a bit during the time they are on before the timer shuts them off (each time a door is opened and closed). With all that is equipped on this vehicle, you will need the highest capacity battery that will fit. Even with that, you may find that 30 minutes is the longest you can listen to the CD player. Keep in mind that there is always a small amount of current going to the radio, TV, ECM, BCM, clocks, security, etc. to keep memory.

If you find that the current draw is above the factory specs, you will need to pull the fuse one at a time for each device to find out which one is drawing more than it should. By having a simple clamp-on Amp meter you can track the problem (if there is any) down quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK guys the charging system checked out but the battery is only showing 520 cca instead of the rated 600cca. So there is my problem, very little reserve capacity. First time I talked to Dodge they told me the battery would be prorated which is what I expected from previous battery issues. When I got there they changed their tune saying it would ONLY be covered under the 3/36 with no prorated warranty ?

Is this correct ? Since I am over the 36k am I SOL ? dang feel like I need to take a poll to get a correct answer form them.
 

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Do you have the warranty information booklet in your glovebox with your owners manual? This will describe items that are covered outside the 3/36.
Did the dealer provide you with written proof from Chrysler stating the battery warranty terms as they see it?
Is there anything printed on the battery itself (raised letter or sticker) stating it's coverage?
 

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the battery in my 08 says 18 months. i started have a little trouble mine too. I know in spring of 09 I could sit through 2 movies at the drive in with the hatch and doors open ant the radio all the way up, and now if i move it to the street so the kids can play it will barely start and I have to drive it around the neiborhood to charge it up.
Mick
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the battery in my 08 says 18 months. i started have a little trouble mine too. I know in spring of 09 I could sit through 2 movies at the drive in with the hatch and doors open ant the radio all the way up, and now if i move it to the street so the kids can play it will barely start and I have to drive it around the neiborhood to charge it up.
Mick

18 months ???
 

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yea on the sticker right under where it says 72 series to the right of mopar. I says 18 month no charge replacement limited warranty with jumpstart assistance. It also says it on the large sticker on the side of the battery faceing the fuse block.
Mick
I am going to reeplace it with a Walmart everstart maxx battery like the one I put in my 05 it has a 3 year free replacement warenty and a 8 year prorated warrenty. it is a 900cca at 32 F and 770cca at 0 F I have had it 21/2 years with no trouble at all.
Mick
 

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Looking at replacing the battery in my 08 T&C - the factory one is on it's last legs (it's let the wife down a couple of times all ready). I've seen a few recommendations for the Walmart Everstart Maxx - any idea which model I should be looking at?

Thanks,

Nick
 

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Dead cell will not give proper open-circuit voltage of 12.6V or so. It will be between 10 and 11 volts.
 
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