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Discussion Starter #1
Jack the car up and remove left front wheel....


Remove ground cable using 15mm socket.....


Using a 7mm socket, remove the screws that hold shield in place....


Remove all six push pins....


Using a 13mm socket remove lower bolt & using a 10mm socket loosen the terminal connections...


Then move bracket to this position...


Using a 13mm socket, remove battery hold down...


Install new battery and reinstall all that was removed..


And a full Wax just because black beautiful!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, if you live in the rust belt, I would recommend painting or using some anti rust spray. Too me this seems like there is not much protectant on the tray and surrounding area.
 

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there's SCREWS Holding the Splash Shield in place!? Man, I miss having to only deal with 4 Twist Locks, 2 13MM Bolts for the Hold down, and the 2 8MM Terminal Bolts!
 

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Nice post. This should be pinned.
 

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So, there's no way to do this without removing the wheel, huh? Also, just curious, what kind of rubber do you have on those wheels and how do you like it?
 

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In theory you should only have to turn the steering wheel to the right for access, but it probably gives a tad more access if you jack up that side and remove the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Jared said:
So, there's no way to do this without removing the wheel, huh? Also, just curious, what kind of rubber do you have on those wheels and how do you like it?
As Doug mentioned, it possibly could be done by cranking the wheel to the right, but this is more involved than pervious J cars. I like to have room to work and I don't take chances on scratching or braking anything.

The tires are Generals and love them! So much better than the original Brigstones. Better handling as well.
 

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Anyone have issues resetting the CD players after replacing the battery? I replaced mine (on a 2001 Sebring), and the CD player has not returned to service. It simply alternates 2 LEDs back and forth...
 

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Welcome to Allpar. The CD loading transport logic may have gotten scrambled by a battery jump or terminal reconnection voltage spike and is now confused.
Try totally disconnecting, pause and reapply battery/ignition power to the CD player to see if that resets it.
The radio sales code should be 3 small white letters beginning with 'R' on the faceplate. Some high-line units are addressable by DRB III scan tool or have manual functions.
Hopefully this is not permanent damage.
 

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Hey IC, could he just remove the fuse for the radio for a few seconds and have it reset? Seems that would be easier.
 

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If he knows for sure which fuse is memory (battery) power to the CD player. Sometimes it may be a battery supply fuse other than the IOD fuse?
A battery disconnect is the sure-fire way to disconnect power and can be done under the hood by disconnecting BOTH ground cables from the jump start stud and body. Count to 10 and reconnect. Reset the clock.
 

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irishdog said:
Anyone have issues resetting the CD players after replacing the battery? I replaced mine (on a 2001 Sebring), and the CD player has not returned to service. It simply alternates 2 LEDs back and forth...
Yes.
Everytime the battery was disconnected for service!
After talking to some after market stereo installers, I was told to disconnect the power to the radio head unit and reconnect after about five minutes.
Apparently this reboots the radio to cd player.

I found it's a rather simple procedure, pop-off the dash bezel, 2 bolts, pull out radio and disconnect power connector.

f.w.i.w. My car was a '98 Sebring conv. with remote cd player in trunk.
 

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Good post!

It makes me wonder if the "free" battery installation by Advance auto or AutoZone will apply for these vehicles.
 
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I know that Advance won't and I can't blame them.
Some automakers batteries are just plain inaccessible for a quick install and not just the J and LH cars.
Rusty or corroded battery terminals and hold-down fasteners will also get you a disclaimer warning in case they break during the service.
 

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Wal Mart will not replace batteries in LH cars. I wanted to buy a car battery at work and use my associate discount on it to save some money. I had to take it to the dealer instead and pay double the price for a new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I used to work for AutoZone and we did not replace batteries in J or LH cars.

If a company is offering a free battery installation and are willing to do a J or LH car, I don't think I would trust them to do it right. But that's just me.
 

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ImperialCrown said:
I know that Advance won't and I can't blame them.
Some automakers batteries are just plain inaccessible for a quick install and not just the J and LH cars.
Rusty or corroded battery terminals and hold-down fasteners will also get you a disclaimer warning in case they break during the service.
I wouldn't want them to. Last battery I purchased was from MoPar (had a dealer coupon) for my Ram. In the end it was slightly cheaper to go to the dealer than Walmart, Advance or AutoZone.
 

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- I got a battery (Duralast Gold) that had a short, thick rubber strap on top. The old battery had a cloth (nylon?) strap that was able to fold down to the side of the battery. It took me a few minutes to figure out that I had to loop the rubber strap around the top rod that holds the metal retaining bracket in place or else the screws for the bracket wouldn't line up.

- I really don't remember taking out the hold down screw, though I have an '04, so maybe it's a bit different.

- Highly recommended to take a few minutes to remove the ground cable from the strut tower, even though it's not necessary. Check for looseness and corrosion. A slightly bad ground connection can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins.
 

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I am still wondering if I was having a nightmare when I read this. Where do the engineers who design this get their education? Some day you will have to crawl in from the trunk to get behind the wheel.
 

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Any engineer knows that quite often, their design constraints come from non-engineers or other non-technical people.
 
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