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After hours of improper connection with charger the battery reversed polarity and wires began to smoke behind instrument panel(ameter).I replaced the fusesble link wire and installed a new battery.Lights won't come on,will not turn over,it made a click and that was it.Should I begin checking wires or does someone know where I should begin this problem solver
 

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KOG
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What vehicle? You'll almost certainly have smoked the alternator diodes and if it has any computers it might be cheaper to scrap it.
 
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. . . .After hours of improper connection with charger the battery reversed polarity and wires began to smoke behind instrument panel(ameter).I replaced the fusesble link wire and installed a new battery.Lights won't come on,will not turn over,it made a click and that was it. . . . .
If this is a 1973 Chrysler chassis it would still have an ammeter on the instrument panel? If YES then all power for lights, ignition, etc must pass through a red and black wire at the ammeter. Trace these wires from the ammeter back to the alternator and battery and I expect you will find an open circuit or short circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If this is a 1973 Chrysler chassis it would still have an ammeter on the instrument panel? If YES then all power for lights, ignition, etc must pass through a red and black wire at the ammeter. Trace these wires from the ammeter back to the alternator and battery and I expect you will find an open circuit or short circuit.
After hours of improper connection with charger the battery reversed polarity and wires began to smoke behind instrument panel(ameter).I replaced the fusesble link wire and installed a new battery.Lights won't come on,will not turn over,it made a click and that was it.Should I begin checking wires or does someone know where I should begin this problem solver
It's a 1972 Dodge Pace Arrow Motorhome 318 and yes those were the wires that fried,black ammeter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If this is a 1973 Chrysler chassis it would still have an ammeter on the instrument panel? If YES then all power for lights, ignition, etc must pass through a red and black wire at the ammeter. Trace these wires from the ammeter back to the alternator and battery and I expect you will find an open circuit or short circuit.
1972
 

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KOG
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Check alternator. Reversed polarity can zap diodes. 1972 should have points rather than electronic ignition.
 

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The melting may have been from a poor connection/high resistance over time, rather than a brief reversed polarity event.
Clean and tight electrical connections must be assured for the instrument cluster and bulkhead (firewall) connectors.
 

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If no power at all into the cab The first branch away from the black 11 gauge ammeter wire is beyond the firewall connector. Is the firewall connector melted, as well as having melted insulation on the wire itself? Those connectors are brass and referred to as DELCO PACKARD 56 terminals.




The alternator and regulator must match.





You can not use an alternator voltage regulator that looks like the above with an alternator that looks like second image above right side.

Tiny tips I hope they help. Don't forget to replace the instrument cluster plug in voltage regulator on the instrument panel circuit board.
 

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Nothing, as in, infinity, zero, or no display on the meter? And from what point to what point?
 

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Positive post on alt. Ground to alt. housing
I hope you're not doing that with the battery connected. If you are, you're shorting out the battery with your meter.
 

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KOG
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One other thing you want to do. Get a late model 4 pin ignition amplifier. Then you don't suffer instant dead engine when the ballast resistor burns out.
 
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