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Discussion Starter #1
I've heard older Neon and Nissan 240SX strut tower braces can be bolted to AJ LeBaron. Which is the best fit so that I can find one over the internet? Does Daytona-compatible brace always fit to LeBaron, meaning requirement for clearances to hood etc are similar?
Some say these braces make remarkable difference, I'm not sure that is the case with my convertible, but they seem to be so cheap I think I'll test one.
 

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I've heard that the Nissan brace will fit with a little bending, not sure about the Neon.
 

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i have the older neon on mine. One bolt lines up the other two you have to drill. The best way if you dont like measuring is a paint dot on the bolts . I noticed the difference. I also have a rear sway bar. when i got mine direct from the factory that makes them there were only 3 left. That was a year ago so dont be too sad if you dont find one. It made the car a completely different car. Besides the fact there is no top to stiffen the car it was worth the upgrade.
 

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As far as I know, the rear sway bars are still available, either direct from the company (the name escapes me, but I have been on their site and they're listed as available) or new on eBay.
 

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As far as I know, the rear sway bars are still available, either direct from the company (the name escapes me, but I have been on their site and they're listed as available) or new on eBay.
Addco that is where i got mine and there were only two left . Ebay has them but no on hand. They have to order it from addco. so either they made more or no one really has any, or they still have the two left. I got mine from summit racing and it was drop shipped to me.
 

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There are 2 companies out there that sell a strut tower bar for the Lebaron,fits all K-based cars. This is another company that makes and sells a rear sway bar for the K-based cars too. Turbos Unleashed, FWD Performance and Polybushings.com.
 

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i check with the seller on ebay and they still can get the rear sway bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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If the body of your car is flexing that much, there's a much bigger problem. Remember, these cars CAME without strut braces. They're stiff enough torsionally to "make do" as it is. You're reinforcing something, not trying to hold it together. I think it should hold up fine, the metal does look decently meaty (as $25 strut tower braces go...)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
B10alia said:
If the body of your car is flexing that much, there's a much bigger problem. Remember, these cars CAME without strut braces.
...
Thanks for your input. Actually found some pics someone having these similar in Spirit.
I don't think mine is flexing any more than any other '89 LeBaron convert. As many others, I'm just looking for some body rigidity which these cars are clearly missing. Probably the best way to start with would be custom subframe connectors, that's not so easy anymore. I've read so many positive comments about strut tower braces so decided to get one myself and see, anyway moneywise it doesn't hurt too much. Though it makes you think why they don't have these standard from the factory...
Understand rear swaybar would help in cornering but can't see that would help to stiffen the body.
 

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Right, since the brace is not resisting the entire flex force, it doesn't need to be massively strong. It adds its strength to the strength the frame has to begin with to get the extra rigidity. Point is, I wouldn't worry about the welds.
 

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I'd be curious if the strut brace helps or hurts with the chassis stiffness. These J convertibles, especially those made before 1993, are rather flexible in the cowl shake department. The flex is in the floorpan between the front and rear masses of the body. I don't suspect the flex ( if any ) in the front tower areas contributes much to, or has much affect on, the cowl shake issue. . Front to back frame connectors would probably be a worthwhile addition. It makes a difference if the top is up or down as well. With the top lowered the flex is more noticable. Even the integrity of the door hinge pins, hinge bushings and the striker bolt affect the body rigidity on these convertibles. Keep in mind that the top and the doors help to hold the front and rear sections of the car together.

The J body coupes are much, much more stiff structurely as I'm sure the Daytona and Laser's are. At least those without the T tops. I would think that the coupes would respond better to the strut brace. In further thought, stiffening the suspension up too far in a convertible probably acts to pass more stress and flex into the body actually worsening the issue. The suspension needs a stiff and rigid chassis to work against and a convertible by it's nature would be compromised by design in this regard.

I'm not sure what Chrysler did on the 1994 and 1995 convertible models ( and possibly the 1993's as well ) but these later models are noticably less flexible than the earlier models. The 1994 sales brochure alludes to chassis "improvements" to stiffen and reinforce the convertible's body structure. If one actually reads the copy of the brochure the noted additions such as an added "flapper" doesn't make any sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My brace is now installed and I have some experience. Nothing bad so far. It helps, yes. Not that much what I hoped for, but pretty much the way I realistically expected. It makes the front section stiffer and especially in cornering the car feels more rigid.
It does not help in the rigidity between front and rear axles, i.e. it can not beat subframe connectors. But worth the expense IMO.
There's one slightly poor photo how it sits in mine: http://www.flickr.com/photos/juntunen76/8624555077/in/photostream

george w said:
I'd be curious if the strut brace helps or hurts with the chassis stiffness...
 

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Did the bar drop in or did you have to bend/drill it? I've heard that the ones that are commonly available "kind of" fit but they all have to be modified somehow. If it dropped in and you have a p/n on it, that might be helpful to others.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had to drill 2 holes like neon98rt mentioned above, that's all. I mention I also cut universal gasket paper and installed the round pieces under the "circles" on the tower to prevent paint scratching, in case I decide to take the bar off some day.
 
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