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1) Always replace or resurface the rotors and drums when the linings are replaced. ALWAYS>

2) Did you bench-bleed the master cylinder? This is a MUST when the master cylinder is replaced, or its lines disconnected.

3) Many of these cars have the brake line to the RF wheel running high on the firewall, as high as the master cylinder. This traps air inside at that point, requiring at least 3 full bleed-arounds to purge it all. I just went through this with my Daytona. Keep bleeding and you will get there.

Can you get good fluid flow from the RF and LR bleeders?
 

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Sounds like a clog or a collapsed flex hose. But even the left rear doesn't flow?

Try this: take the MC caps off and pack a rag around the cylinder for paint protection. Have someone *very* gently and slowly press the brake pedal while you watch (with safety goggles on). You should see a small geyser or disturbance on the surface of the brake fluid. If not, there is a problem with the master cylinder.
 

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What was wrong with the original MC?

I never buy parts from Autozone, after getting defective and fraudulent parts. I bought my MC and brake parts from Rockauto.com online. Better brands.
 

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My wife operates the pedal while I bleed each wheel. Works out fine.

I rigged up the tubing necessary to bench-bleed a MC inside my warm basement (no garage).
 
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