[chilibowl]

Hello Fellow Mopar /Allpar devotees, motorheads.



Doing the Brakes on my Crusty 84 RELIANT 2.2 , I replaced the Pads & shoes -on this 4 lug rim Antique.



I figured all I needed was frictional components, and some proper brake bleeding.



Turns out ,my Brake light still came on.




I replaced the Master Cylinder w/ a Reman from Auotzone , Had the Transfer(pry off) the old Resivoir to the "new " master Cylinder.


Had trouble cracking the Bleeder nuts , so I used a Liberal Amount of P.B. Blaster /Liquid wrench on them ,after Using a M.A.P. gas torch , and daubing some candle wax on the hot Nuts. Was able to free them up.

I did the old Fashioned 2-person Bleeding Technique w/a Soda bottle of Brake fluid ,Rubber(silicone) hose & Bleeder wrench.

I started in the Diagonal Fashion , Right rear Wheel Bleeder - Left Front Bleeder , Left Rear Bleeder- Right Front Bleeder.


My results were Bleeding works on the Right Rear -Left Front( PLENTY OF AIR BUBBLES) , but ,But ,But on other side , NO air bubbles .

What the Heck is going on?????? this is the most frustrating Brake job on a K_CAR I ever did!!!!!!!

Either I am losing my touch ,or there is some defective component somewhere???


This makes me want to sell this thing for ScrAp$$$$$$$.


regards , stu

 

[chilibowl]

1) Always replace or resurface the rotors and drums when the linings are replaced. ALWAYS>

2) Did you bench-bleed the master cylinder? This is a MUST when the master cylinder is replaced, or its lines disconnected.

3) Many of these cars have the brake line to the RF wheel running high on the firewall, as high as the master cylinder. This traps air inside at that point, requiring at least 3 full bleed-arounds to purge it all. I just went through this with my Daytona. Keep bleeding and you will get there.

Can you get good fluid flow from the RF and LR bleeders?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------NO!!!!! I do not get ANY fluid flow from the Right Front (passenger side) &Left Front Bleeders- period. My Helper pumped on it at least 8 times. I removed the Bleeder screws & they are Rather Rusty!!!---- I even tried to get some fluid flow with a "vacuum Pump Trick " I accquired a small SHUCO Vacuum pump (like a A/C vacuum pump). Yes ,definetly Bench bleeded the MS cylinder before installation
.

I was able to suck some fluid out of the system , Yellowish ,NOT clear brake fluid. I wonder if my distribution Block(waring light block) is clogged up -or I have a BUM reman-Master cylinder?????-

Regards to your advice,,, -STU

 

[chilibowl]

Sounds like a clog or a collapsed flex hose. But even the left rear doesn't flow?

Try this: take the MC caps off and pack a rag around the cylinder for paint protection. Have someone *very* gently and slowly press the brake pedal while you watch (with safety goggles on). You should see a small geyser or disturbance on the surface of the brake fluid. If not, there is a problem with the master cylinder.

yES - I need to replace THAT MASTER CYLINDER ,,,, -thanks for the Advice , stu :1st:

 

[chilibowl]

What was wrong with the original MC?

I never buy parts from Autozone, after getting defective and fraudulent parts. I bought my MC and brake parts from Rockauto.com online. Better brands.

I returned that Reman Master Cyl to AutoZoo ( I used to work there -I can get like a Zoo on saturdays!!). Replaced it with a new one ,even though its a FENCO. Had my Helper (Dad) pump the Brakes for me while doing old-Fashioned Bleeding , and used that Vacuum Pump while he Pumped down on that side,,, a BIG stream of dirty Brake Fluid came out,,, Then we repumped it & bleeded it again. IT all worked out OK , Next Step Mr Bob Lincoln ,,, Fix the emissions system-or junk it,,,,

Thanks so much for your sagely advice , yes Rock Auto is Cool ,I have ordered via them ,but Shipping is $$$$$$$----
Regards ,stu