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Brake BLEEDING-nightmare!

2997 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  chilibowl
Hello Fellow Mopar /Allpar devotees, motorheads.



Doing the Brakes on my Crusty 84 RELIANT 2.2 , I replaced the Pads & shoes -on this 4 lug rim Antique.



I figured all I needed was frictional components, and some proper brake bleeding.



Turns out ,my Brake light still came on.




I replaced the Master Cylinder w/ a Reman from Auotzone , Had the Transfer(pry off) the old Resivoir to the "new " master Cylinder.


Had trouble cracking the Bleeder nuts , so I used a Liberal Amount of P.B. Blaster /Liquid wrench on them ,after Using a M.A.P. gas torch , and daubing some candle wax on the hot Nuts. Was able to free them up.

I did the old Fashioned 2-person Bleeding Technique w/a Soda bottle of Brake fluid ,Rubber(silicone) hose & Bleeder wrench.

I started in the Diagonal Fashion , Right rear Wheel Bleeder - Left Front Bleeder , Left Rear Bleeder- Right Front Bleeder.


My results were Bleeding works on the Right Rear -Left Front( PLENTY OF AIR BUBBLES) , but ,But ,But on other side , NO air bubbles .

What the Heck is going on?????? this is the most frustrating Brake job on a K_CAR I ever did!!!!!!!

Either I am losing my touch ,or there is some defective component somewhere???


This makes me want to sell this thing for ScrAp$$$$$$$.


regards , stu
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· Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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The distribution block (combination valve) has a shuttle valve inside that will slide all the way to one side and lock in that position in order to ground the BRAKE warning light switch to turn on the light and to shut off the flow of brake fluid to the diagonally-split pair with the low pressure or leak so that you will still have brakes to get you home safely and it won't all pour out on the ground. The side that can build pressure (LF, RR) will push the shuttle all the way over.
You need to push the shuttle back to its middle position to reset the light and get flow to all 4 brakes again.
To do this, you need a helper, open all 4 bleeders, push the pedal to the floor and hold it, then close the bleeders on the non-working side (RF, LR), lift and then push down on the brake pedal. You may hear a clunk as the shuttle unlocks from the safety position and slides to the center. Close all bleeders and pump the pedal to resume bleeding. You should have brake fluid out of all 4 bleeders now.
 
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