Sounds like you need a new master cylinder. That's what cured this condition for me. The pedal would come back, but the brakes would stay locked and even hold on a hill in neutral for about 2 seconds. This was after new front hoses had been installed.
Brake pedal slow return
I've had this condition for years, now let's see your opinion...
So, in drive the problem comes basically only on slippery surface; when you release the brake pedal, wheels are still locked for a while and you can't control the ride like you should.. My car has passed inspections several times with this cond, brake forces themselves are good.
What's new:
front - calipers, pads, brake hoses
rear - calipers, rotors, rearmost lines, rearmost hoses.
Preliminary tests reveal that if I grap the pedal with my hand and pull it back, so do the brakes.
Between the lines from main cylinder to rear and rearmost lines there are hoses. Could those be plugged and cause this problem? Something with brake booster / vacuum things? Thanks already.
So, in drive the problem comes basically only on slippery surface; when you release the brake pedal, wheels are still locked for a while and you can't control the ride like you should.. My car has passed inspections several times with this cond, brake forces themselves are good.
What's new:
front - calipers, pads, brake hoses
rear - calipers, rotors, rearmost lines, rearmost hoses.
Preliminary tests reveal that if I grap the pedal with my hand and pull it back, so do the brakes.
Between the lines from main cylinder to rear and rearmost lines there are hoses. Could those be plugged and cause this problem? Something with brake booster / vacuum things? Thanks already.
1 - 2 of 9 Posts
It's easy to disconnect the lines from the master cylinder. Make sure to use a tubing wrench, which looks like a box wrench with one of the 6 sides cut out to slide the wrench over the tubing. It will grip 5 sides of the hex nut instead of only 3 sides like a box wrench does. This will prevent rounding off the nut.
When replacing, a master cylinder MUST be bled of all air before bleeding the air at all 4 wheels.
When replacing, a master cylinder MUST be bled of all air before bleeding the air at all 4 wheels.
1 - 2 of 9 Posts
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