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After 152,000 miles it's time to replace the rear brake shoes on my 92 Spirit. The shoes are hard to come by in my area and a local NAPA was the only place who carried them. I noticed that the originals have a short lining facing the front and a longer lining facing the rear. The replacements all have the longer linings on them. The overall size is correct and are meant for the drums. Will this cause any issues?I have confirmed the correct part number.
 

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Rickorino said:
After 152,000 miles it's time to replace the rear brake shoes on my 92 Spirit. The shoes are hard to come by in my area and a local NAPA was the only place who carried them. I noticed that the originals have a short lining facing the front and a longer lining facing the rear. The replacements all have the longer linings on them. The overall size is correct and are meant for the drums. Will this cause any issues?I have confirmed the correct part number.
I've put those shoes with the longer lining in EEK cars before with no problems. The rears provide only a small amount of overall braking benefit and that is why they last so long. You'll probably never have to change them again, providing they don't get contaminated by a leaking wheel cylinder or grease seal.

If you had checked online seller Rock Auto, you will see that they carry many rear brake shoes for your car at very good prices. They often have wholesale close outs and I've seen brand name brake shoes as cheap as $7.50 a pair. You may want to get a rear brake shoe kit with all new springs and hold down pins.

Put some effort into totally cleaning and re-packing the bearings with fresh grease and replace the grease seals. If you get the bearings properly greased and set up properly, you will be good for a long time; possibly for as long as you will keep the vehicle. I did mine about 5-6 years ago and I'm probably due for rear axle brake/bearing service. In fact I was on the Rock Auto web page a couple of weeks ago. All parts for the early 90's EEK cars are very cheap from that site.
 

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Thanks John for your suggestions. I already had the hardware kit and had a coupon for Napa which helped. The shoes were so rusted that the lining was peeling off and the others were rather thin. I am going over the bearings as well as suggested. Hopefully I won't need to do this again.
 

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I have one last question regarding the rear drums. Mine have the hubs and I have noticed pictures of the replacements have no hub. Does the hub need to be pressed out and reused?
 

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Yes, it does. If it's stubborn, you can place the edges of the old drum on some elevated surface such as a couple of wooden blocks or cement blocks, place a small board resting across the lugs, and tap with a rubber mallet until the hub comes out. Pressing it back in is accomplished simply by assembling it, and torquing the lug nuts when installing the tire gives it the final fit.
 

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I'll often thread the lugnuts down flush with the end of the stud to protect the stud threads when pounding out the hub. Also, putting some penetrating oil (rust desolver) around the studs where they penerate the drum helps facilitate removal.
 

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Two quick questions on this, since I'm about to do the same job:

1) I didn't realize I should redo hubs/bearings, too. Is that just because I have the wheels apart that I might as well, or is it considered part of the process?

2) I got new drums, too, since the old ones are so old and rusty and they were practically giving them away at Rock Auto. They look a little bigger than the ones on the car (I haven't taken wheels off, but just holding them against the wheel they look a good inch and half bigger in diameter. All the drums on sale for my vehicle (84 LeBaron turbo) were the same size on Rock Auto. Is there a problem if the drum is a big bigger?
 

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I just finished this job. As suggested, you should clean and repack the bearings with new grease since you have to remove the drums anyway. Replace the grease seals and hardware as well. Mine were original, weak and very rusty.I had to pound out the hubs to reuse on the new drums. To answer your second question, the new drums have to be the same diameter as the originals. Likely you have the wrong drums.
 

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Thanks.

I haven't started yet, since I just did the front brakes and I have no leaks, so I'm in a tremendous hurry to do the back what with everything else I have to do on this car.

I'll do the bearings, too, then.
 
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