[fastfish]

Check the listing for a daytona of the same year. I was trying to find a rear disc for my 92 lebaron and a salvage yard told me the one from a daytona would work and that he had one. If that is true the m/c should be the same I'd think.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

And rockauto.com is a great source for parts for older cars.

 

[bamman]

If you need to cross reference the master cylinder to the original, the mopar part number is 4509082 or 4485301. Here is one at AutoZone:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fenco-New-Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/_/N-8kn47?itemIdentifier=236038_0_0_

 

[valiant67]

In 1989 the rear discs were standard on all LeBarons even those with 14" wheels, then the switched back to rear drums on them with discs as an option. You might see if the 1989 one is what you want.

For example if I look on Rockauto.com under 1990, I see BENDIX Part # PMC11983 as listed for 4 wheel discs with 15" or 16" wheels.
If I look under 1989, that same part number is listed for 4 wheel discs with 14" and 15" tires. So it looks like your plan to ignore the wheel size may be correct.

 

[RaiRai]

I got mine about a month ago from Rockauto. I have 4 vented discs and _quess_ the same part would go to the other 4 disc setup. Anyway, as my part is still waiting for installation I have a question concerning this: Can I bleed the master cylinder after it's been attached to the brake booster or is the bench bleeding the only way to make it right? I did not get the "bleeding set" with the part unlike it was advertised...

 

[valiant67]

You really need to bench bleed it. I always install the master cylinder on the car and bench bleed it there before I hook up the lines. You can get some brake line and make your own bench bleeding kit.

 

[RaiRai]

Ok. That was what I ment that does it make a difference if the master cylinder is completely level (out from the car) or installed to the booster when it is a bit "nose" upwards.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Not critical. Bleeding in on the car is FAR easier than when in a vise.

 

[mrneuro]

I cant have the only 90 lebaron with 4 wheel disk. or can i ?

My 90 LeBaron GT droptop had the discs all around..

 

[neon98rt]

it still took me an hour to figure this out and i still dont trust what i ordered. I called summit and they looked up the part because their webpage didnt narrow it down to drums or disks. ( i found a few sites that missed that step) He said it was the same part. it was dorman m39736 and rock auto had that part number too . Autozone online said that will not fit my car. But i ordered it anyhow. autozone part number m1945. I used the dorman to find the oem then used the oem to find that autozone.
20% off at autozone ends may 2.
thanks for the help

I bench bleed on a vice.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Rockauto shows Dorman M39736, among others; or M39476 for Professional Grade.

Autozone shows Fenco part number M1983 (remanufactured) for rear disc. Or NM1983 for a new master cylinder.

 

[bamman]

Like I mentioned in post 4, there are two part numbers listed for the J Body with 14" wheels and all discs. The two master cylinders include:
4509082--MASTER CYLINDER, Complete, w/4 Wheel Disc Brakes, w/o Fluid Wdo., w/14" Wheels
4485301--MASTER CYLINDER, Complete, w/4 Wheel Disc Brakes, w/ Fluid Wdo., w/14" Wheels

This number translates to the following:
Autozone: Fenco NM2412
Bendix: 12319
Dorman M39736
Napa: NMC M2963
Wagner: MC115580

These are just to name a few. Just remember, you are looking for a 7/8" bore size specified for the master cylinder.

 

[neon98rt]

but m39736 from the dorman site tranlates to an oem part number and that oem part number translates to autozone m1945. Summit racing said the same thing.
I saw the autozone m2412 but avoided it because when it was in my cart it said " with rear drum"

Suppose i cant tell by looking at them side by side. The one i ordered is 7/8

 

[neon98rt]

here is a great cross ref site http://www.oehq.com/oeparts_ACD18M1833.htm

I guess the trick is knowing the oem part number sadly it is not on the part itself. The one i ordered says it fits 83 to 95.


and a 2.5L .... I guess when it comes i will take it back and get the 2412 one. Luckly i will have two cars and i have to take all the cores back anyhow.

 

[neon98rt]

sadly this has been a 3 day event to get the correct one. I picked out one and it was the wrong one. Then i went by rock auto . Took the part off and the reservoir did not fit. M1983. I took the old one in and they said 2412 fits. That was the one i avoided to by because it says " with front drums' .. this is the oem part number off of it 4294511 It must have been the only one because i can not find it online.

I should be able to bench bleed it then when i compress the calipers the air that is in the line should go backwards into the master cylinder correct? I am also replacing all 4 calipers because they are cheap and one sticks and it makes a horrible sound when cold as i back out of the driveway. I just didnt want one lone air bubble that started up top to get stuck towards the end so i thought the reverse idea would work .

 

[Bob Lincoln]

I should be able to bench bleed it then when i compress the calipers the air that is in the line should go backwards into the master cylinder correct? I am also replacing all 4 calipers because they are cheap and one sticks and it makes a horrible sound when cold as i back out of the driveway. I just didnt want one lone air bubble that started up top to get stuck towards the end so i thought the reverse idea would work .

Nope. Air will still get trapped in the line along the way. After bench bleeding, you still have to bleed all 4 wheels, perhaps several times, until all the air is out. I had a solid pedal, then it went to the floor again when a trapped bubble moved. Took two more bleeds all around before it was purged of all air.

 

[neon98rt]

It all went good. took me 5 hours. 4.9999 of it was putting new parking brakes on. Mine were gone. If you ever do this pay attention to the bottom. there is a lot going on down there with the levers ect. If you drop a spring inside you have to start over again.

With a 4 new calipers and master cylinder my car stops better. Before it seemed like it wanted to " think about it first" before stopping.

It still wont lock them up and scream to a stop but its not a vette.

Anyone know if ceramic brakes stop slower? I like them for the dust free. Plus they last forever without eating the rotors .