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Discussion Starter #1
The link is to a search of my area's craigslist, but they are all the same car.

I'm thinking of trading off my unfinished beetle project.

The guy says it's the slant six with the torqueflight transmission. Supposedly the transmission was rebuilt 10k miles ago, but the car has also been sitting for 7 years until recently.

I'm not really a Classic Car drive. I'm hoping to get this running so my kid can drive it to school. Maybe use it as a weekend or second car.

I am able to do he whole shade-tree mechanic thing.

Anyway, I see one of the rear lights is dinged. Do you guys spot anything I missed?

The guy says the car is idling fine, runs fine but dies immediately upon putting it into gear. His take is that the transmission needs drained and flushed and refilled that that should take care of this. I'm not so sure.
 

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Welcome, I've got a soft spot for those old Valiants especially the 67 and 68.
I don't think the drain and flush of the transmission is going to help. I really would suspect the problem is more likely in the carb or possibly the ignition. The dying when put in gear issue is more often a problem in cars several years newer than this with a lockup torque converter. It looks decent an the price isn't bad but if the problem really is the transmission it may need rebuilt again. You also want to get a good look under the car. The rear torsion bar anchors were a problem rust area on these cars.
 

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Judging by the car's location; it's probably almost rustfree. Washington State area rust typically is nothing like Washington DC area rust. :)
 

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Yes, Eastern Washington is a good area for picking up rust-free vehicles (overall).

Agree it is most likely an adjustment to the carb or simple timing. A bad torque converter that has locked up, you would have to actually diagnose the condition of dropping her in gear and dying. Even at that, heck of a deal for a 68, even if it does have two too many doors, she does look pretty clean.
 

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Darn good cars. My guess on the engine stall is that the carb gasket has dried and cracked, leaking vacuum. Could also be cracked rubber hoses to the brake booster or distributor. Your fuel tank might have five hoses going from tank to an odd looking canister next to the frame. Those could be cracked. One leads to a charcoal canister under the hood. The engine draws vacuum and fumes from that canister.
 

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Probably doesn't have the five hoses, that didn't occur in 1968, it was a couple years later. A vacuum leak is possible, but the worst case scenario is debris lodged in the torque converter locking the vanes up, improper tune the best case scenario. For the price, it is worth it if a couple hundred bucks is needed to fix the problem.
 

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If it dies immediately at idle, that is one thing. If the revs are brought up to say 1800 and it kills immediately and feels like the engine is not slowing down but becomes frozen. That would be something like transmission has fairly big problems. If it just dies because the engine acts more like it was turned off in gear. Then I would think that you have carb, fuel line, or electrical issues. I do see that the left rear side light is missing. Check for rust in that area. other than that, it is not that collectable but fun to have car.
 

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If I were going for the '67+ A-body, the '67-68 Valiant is my favorite. I like the two-door models more, but the fours are still very sharp looking cars.

If rust isn't a problem and assuming that the body doesn't look worse in-person than it does in the photos, even if the drivetrain is shot it's probably still worthwhile. The 225ci slant six was used for so long (into the eighties) that sourcing whole engines and probably even transmissions shouldn't be all that hard to do, and given the prolific sales of the A-bodies through the mid-seventies, other parts should be findable.
 

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TWX said:
If I were going for the '67+ A-body, the '67-68 Valiant is my favorite. I like the two-door models more, but the fours are still very sharp looking cars.

If rust isn't a problem and assuming that the body doesn't look worse in-person than it does in the photos, even if the drivetrain is shot it's probably still worthwhile. The 225ci slant six was used for so long (into the eighties) that sourcing whole engines and probably even transmissions shouldn't be all that hard to do, and given the prolific sales of the A-bodies through the mid-seventies, other parts should be findable.
I have to agree with you; the 1969-72 Valiants were plainer in appearance.

Although I do like the 1967-69 Dart 4 doors better than the newer models; less weight which means less stress on the control arm bushings, etc. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hopefully I get a chance to get a look at this car Tuesday.

I'll be sure to check under the rear. I'm hoping to work out a fair trade with this feller for a Volkswagen and horde of goodies I have to go with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got to check out the car today. It as cold and dark, but it idled like a champ. When thrown into gear, it struggled and died. If coaxed it could back up, but the guy was afraid to run it like that for fear the transmission was suffering.

He also had a replacement tailight in the trunk for the one that was messed up. The side-markers on the rear were both AWOL, but I think that's easily overcome.

It looked pretty clean. There were some dings of course, but I think I can get the body work done way below cost through my work, so hammering those out won't be a problem.

How hard is it to get a replacement dash and upholstery kit? I'm used to VW's where you can mail order just about anything for them. Am I going to find that about true in this case?

I want to take a second to say I appreciate your guys' time and wisdom I know right now I'm a one-post wonder. But thank you guys. Once I get this car home I'm going to need all the help I can get and I appreciate that resources like this exist and guys like you are here.
 

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I thin both the dash and seat covers are available. Factory style seat upholstery will be expensive.
 

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Both are very possible. Side marker lights for 1968 are all round on all makes and models, something cool when being able to identify a 1968 Mopar from a distance.
 

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Southwest Reproductions makes a bunch of A-body parts, so it's likely that you can replace a lot of missing or damaged stuff through them.
 

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Less likely, but if carb and vacuum hose repairs don't fix it, it could be that someone adjusted the valve lash in too much, so that the valves don't quite close fully. This causes the engine to die at idle with no shaking, just a smooth 'sigh'.
 

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Throw a vacuum gauge on it and see what it does running and in gear, or if the vacuum is "bouncy".
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I will try these once I get it home. I've got to trailer it and the weather is slowly going to the dark side around here.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got it home last night. Freezing fog be damned :D

Bought my vacuum gauge today will play with it tomorrow.

As far as the carb goes, I did see that it has a "Re-manufactured" sticker on it and from what I've read so far re-manufactured carburetors can be problematic?

I'm going to have to get a book and give it a rebuild I think once I assess it further.

When I put the vac gauge on there, what am I looking for? A nice steady reading at what pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
dana44 said:
Throw a vacuum gauge on it and see what it does running and in gear, or if the vacuum is "bouncy".
The vacuum is bouncy parked. between 15 and 20.I measured this off a capped port on the booster.

I warmed it up and drove it to the gas stations (less than a half mile) and put some gas in it. It idled fine cold, rough when warm. I couldn't keep it running without goosing it a tiny bit. I took it up the road, to what the speedo said was about 50mph and I could still detect a miss, but the car went okay. A little boggy though.

I found this "http://www.slantsix.org/articles/choke-adjust/carb-info/bbs1.jpg and will be adjusting the carb tomorrow when it's light. It's colder than heck out there now and I don't have a garage.
 
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