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OK, sounds like one of two possibilities. 15-20 bouncing back and forth is usually a low float. The level drops, then gets more fuel when the needle opens inside the carb from the fuel pump, then more fuel is able to enter the venturii at idle. Start with that.
 

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Another thing to look at is valve adjustment; since you've had a VW Beetle or two, you know what that entails. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
dana44 said:
OK, sounds like one of two possibilities. 15-20 bouncing back and forth is usually a low float. The level drops, then gets more fuel when the needle opens inside the carb from the fuel pump, then more fuel is able to enter the venturii at idle. Start with that.
Would this also cause surging? I'm not hearing anything like that.
 

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Sorry, yes, definitely, because the engine is slowly going neutral on fuel/air ratio, to lean, then neutral, then lean, yes, definitely surging.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So I'm not hearing any surging in the motor though.

Could be my rock and roll ears though. It seems like there's no way around it, I'm going to need to remove the carb and see if it needs replaced or rebuilt.

Is there anything else I should check on this strange-to-me car?

Thank you guys.
 

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Let's save a little money here, the carb itself is probably just fine, the float level needs to be raised, that's all. The top comes off, it gets turned upside down and a tab gets bent where the needle that allows fuel into the carb that makes the seam of the float parallel to the edge of the carb top. For right now, turn this top and float upside down and right side up, then bend that tab where it connects to the top a little bit so when it is turned over the float has less clearance by about half of what it is now, that's all you have to do for now.

A carb rebuild kit, much cheaper than a rebuilt carb, is much cheaper and very easy to rebuild these carbs. They include an exploded view of the carb so you get everything back where it belongs. Piece of cake and about 1/10th the cost. Oh, and the kit has a little measuring guage so the float is set properly.

Look inside the place the float sits, there is gas in there, and at times there is dirt or gunk that settles on the bottom, clean it out if there is any. Put it back together and see how she runs, vacuum should be steady, and if just a slight studder or drop in vacuum then return, this tab needs to be bent just a little bit more. If after a couple seconds of cranking, have to fill the bowl back up, she starts, but you see fuel seeping from the top of the carb, the float is a little bit high, so you have to bend the tab so the float is just a tiny bit higher.

If the vacuum is then steady and the studder goes away completely, just saved you a whole bunch of money.
 

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MAJOR SCORE!!! You better tell Dad he is one heck of a great father and that you love him for this.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I have a carb kit in my hot little hands. Tomorrow I'll hopefully be rebuilding the carb, adjusting the float and getting it back on the car, checking the timing and then valves. Hopefully!

Weather was beautiful to day and I had to spend it looking out the window of my office wishing I was working in my driveway
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Rebuilt the carb today. Still dying in gear.

It is idling better in park though, and I got the rpms down low where they should in park. So it was worth doing.

I'm going check the timing later today. Bah!
 

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alphachild said:
Rebuilt the carb today. Still dying in gear.

It is idling better in park though, and I got the rpms down low where they should in park. So it was worth doing.

I'm going check the timing later today. Bah!
You might have toasted ignition points. IMHO if such is the case; once you have a few dollars handy, I'd do away with them and install a Mopar vacuum advance electronic ignition.

Too; part of why your car may be idling poorly may be due to having too low a battery voltage. One big problem that many vintage Mopars had was voltage loss through the ammeter. What some people do is bypass that thing and rig up a voltage gauge. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I think it's got a petronix solid state ignition.

I'm going to pull the distributor and reinstall it using the directions in my Hayes manual.

I'm going to check this ammeter ghost and see if that helps.

Does Allpar have a write up on hooking in a voltage meter?
 

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The only thing I see that I am not fond of is that the low voltage ignition wiring to the coil are to close to each other. Normally I like them farther apart to prevent possible cross voltage spikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
68RT said:
The only thing I see that I am not fond of is that the low voltage ignition wiring to the coil are to close to each other. Normally I like them farther apart to prevent possible cross voltage spikes.
Would that be causing the stalling issues I'm having?
 

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No, it wouldn't, would be more like a miss or jerk on occasion, but not serious unless the wires were really worn out. just move the coil wire so it doesn't lay against any of the other sparkplug wires and you will be fine.

Have you been able to determine what is making the vacuum fluctuate the way it is, as in valve lash, or through a compression test to verify compression isn't the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I haven't Dana44, I didn't even go look at it today. I'm working out doors and the winds have been howling. Weather service alert howling. Hopefully it dies down tomorrow and I can adjust the valves
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I didn't get a chance to test the vacuum again today.

I read a write up of Dan's and it read that testing from the carb was preferred to testing from the booster.

I was getting the jerky reading from the booster and a steady (I don't remember what right now) from in between the vacuum advance and carb.

Does that make any difference?
 

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alphachild said:
I didn't get a chance to test the vacuum again today.

I read a write up of Dan's and it read that testing from the carb was preferred to testing from the booster.

I was getting the jerky reading from the booster and a steady (I don't remember what right now) from in between the vacuum advance and carb.

Does that make any difference?
One thing to you may wish to do is is disconnect the line from the booster/plug it then test the vacuum at the carb. If no change, your booster is OK and at least one variable has been eliminated. :)
 
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