car stop running
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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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22,727 Posts
Welcome to Allpar. It's not the coil. It might be the coil primary wiring, crank position sensor or PCM trouble. Sometimes the fault code is a symptom of where the engine stops when it stalls.
You want the car to fail in order to find the problem. Once it is in failure, get your scan tool and test light and check for crank sensor signal (lost or present). Check for power to the coil (DkGn/Or) momentarily at key-on or while a helper cranks it over.
One return wire is for cyls# 1 & 4, the other is for cyls# 2 & 3, so even if one of those fails it will still try to start on 2 cylinders.
This diagram is for a 2.4L minivan, but circuits and wire colors may be similar:
0900c1528003c6bf.gif
You want the car to fail in order to find the problem. Once it is in failure, get your scan tool and test light and check for crank sensor signal (lost or present). Check for power to the coil (DkGn/Or) momentarily at key-on or while a helper cranks it over.
One return wire is for cyls# 1 & 4, the other is for cyls# 2 & 3, so even if one of those fails it will still try to start on 2 cylinders.
This diagram is for a 2.4L minivan, but circuits and wire colors may be similar:
0900c1528003c6bf.gif
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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22,727 Posts
The PCM should be mounted to the firewall below the cowl on the left side of the vehicle. You will want a scan tool to check input and output states and a test light and multimeter to do circuit tests at the connectors.
You may also want a good service or Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual for tracing the problem if the engine compartment wiring diagram link in my previous post is different than what your PT is.
Depending on your tools and abilities, you may need help with this. The manuals build the tests around having a DRB III dealer scan tool which you probably don't have free access to, but some simple tests may find the problem with good diagnostic skills.
You may also want a good service or Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual for tracing the problem if the engine compartment wiring diagram link in my previous post is different than what your PT is.
Depending on your tools and abilities, you may need help with this. The manuals build the tests around having a DRB III dealer scan tool which you probably don't have free access to, but some simple tests may find the problem with good diagnostic skills.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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22,727 Posts
The OBD II scan tool will connect to a plug under the dash to watch what the PCM and its sensors see and what it does with that information.
If replacing the coil with an OEM part didn't fix the P0352 and it repeatedly sets nothing but P0352, the other things that could possibly cause it would be wiring/connector terminals to and from the PCM and coil or the PCM itself. Have you ever seen a P0351?
The fuel pump is accessed at the top of the fuel tank. The tank would have to come down to get at the fuel pump connector, hoses and pump. Fuel pressure can be monitored up front by the fuel rail with a gauge if you suspect that the fuel pump has an issue. The PCM will turn off the fuel pump if it doesn't see the engine turning. At key-on, you should hear a brief 'hum' in the back as the pump initially pressurizes the system.
Does this car 'buck' or 'sputter' before it shuts off or does it 'shut off' like someone just turned the key off?
If replacing the coil with an OEM part didn't fix the P0352 and it repeatedly sets nothing but P0352, the other things that could possibly cause it would be wiring/connector terminals to and from the PCM and coil or the PCM itself. Have you ever seen a P0351?
The fuel pump is accessed at the top of the fuel tank. The tank would have to come down to get at the fuel pump connector, hoses and pump. Fuel pressure can be monitored up front by the fuel rail with a gauge if you suspect that the fuel pump has an issue. The PCM will turn off the fuel pump if it doesn't see the engine turning. At key-on, you should hear a brief 'hum' in the back as the pump initially pressurizes the system.
Does this car 'buck' or 'sputter' before it shuts off or does it 'shut off' like someone just turned the key off?
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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22,727 Posts
It it turns off instantly then I don't think that P0352 is the main problem.
Even if half of the coil pack shuts off, you still have two cylinders firing. This would cause a sputtering to a gradual stop and at least a half-hearted try to restart.
This problem will need to be diagnosed right after the car quits and doesn't restart.
First check for spark and fuel.
A brief shot of carb or throttle body cleaner into the throttle body followed by a restart attempt may get an attempt out of the engine to start. It may fire up and stall. This would show that you have spark, but the injectors may be staying closed. (Use extreme caution when using any flammable aerosols around spark or heat).
To diagnose further may require a scan tool. Make sure that the scan tool can communicate with the PCM. Look at a scan tool sensor display under the sensor menu and see if you have a crank and/or cam sensor signal present while cranking.
If one (especially the crank sensor) signal is lost or missing, it could cause what you are experiencing without leaving behind a fault code. Many times after sitting and cooling, they will start.
Even if half of the coil pack shuts off, you still have two cylinders firing. This would cause a sputtering to a gradual stop and at least a half-hearted try to restart.
This problem will need to be diagnosed right after the car quits and doesn't restart.
First check for spark and fuel.
A brief shot of carb or throttle body cleaner into the throttle body followed by a restart attempt may get an attempt out of the engine to start. It may fire up and stall. This would show that you have spark, but the injectors may be staying closed. (Use extreme caution when using any flammable aerosols around spark or heat).
To diagnose further may require a scan tool. Make sure that the scan tool can communicate with the PCM. Look at a scan tool sensor display under the sensor menu and see if you have a crank and/or cam sensor signal present while cranking.
If one (especially the crank sensor) signal is lost or missing, it could cause what you are experiencing without leaving behind a fault code. Many times after sitting and cooling, they will start.
The car runs fine then it just shut off, wait about 10 to 30 seconds a and it will start back up and run fine again for another couple
of miles. My mechanic tested the fuel rail and it was fine, he drove it around and it ran fine all day long, nothing. where is the cam sensor and the crank sensor located on the 2001 pt located at.
of miles. My mechanic tested the fuel rail and it was fine, he drove it around and it ran fine all day long, nothing. where is the cam sensor and the crank sensor located on the 2001 pt located at.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
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22,727 Posts
I might want to try a crank (CKP) position sensor first if it can't be diagnosed and I have to take a best guess.
If this is the 2.4L engine, it should be in the back of the engine block near the oil filter held in by a single 10 mm bolt. I have heard of other locations being under the starter in front (see 2nd image). It will have 3-wires going to it.
Use caution while jacking and crawling under the car. Always use a jackstand under the frame.
10_14_2011_2_00_13_pm.gif
12900_cs_4.jpg
If this is the 2.4L engine, it should be in the back of the engine block near the oil filter held in by a single 10 mm bolt. I have heard of other locations being under the starter in front (see 2nd image). It will have 3-wires going to it.
Use caution while jacking and crawling under the car. Always use a jackstand under the frame.
10_14_2011_2_00_13_pm.gif
12900_cs_4.jpg
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