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Hi All!

My name is Luis and im from Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. This is the first time i have a chrysler vehicle, but im not new in cars. I have been working in ford cars from the last ten years at least, and learned a lot (they break down every now and then) so i have a little knowledge about these, so if i can help just ask!

Well, i decided the current Suv (Ford Exploder) was getting old, so i talked with a friend which had a Dodge Caravan 1997 3.3 liter V6 with 180000 miles,laying around so i can have it very cheap if i can fix it.

Well, i know its going to be hard to get the van working good again, but what the hell? i love to work on cars so this will be a new challenge. I went with my friend to check the van and runs and drives, but very rough. It starts at first times but gets all kinds of problems; hesitation, fluctuating idle, backfiring, no power, dies every now and then, bad mpg, etc.....

I have a code reader and decided to give a shot on the van, so i was surprised how much codes i got.This is the report from my 3100a Can tool:


Stored:
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or single sensor)
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit
P1493 Ambient/ Battery Temp sensor input voltage too low
P1391 Intermittent loss of CMP or CKP


MIL OFF
MisFire Monitor Complete
Fuel System Monitor Complete
Comprehensive Component Monitor Complete
Catalyst Monitor Not Complete
Heated Catalyst Monitor Not Supported
Evaporative System Monitor Not Complete
Secondary Air System Monitor Not Supported
A/C System Refrigerant Monitor Not Supported
Oxygen Sensor Monitor Not Complete
Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor Not Complete
EGR System Monitor Not Complete

DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P0117
Fuel System 1 Status Open Loop
Fuel System 2 Status Not Supported
Calculated LOAD Value 0.00 %
Engine Coolant Temp 260.60 °F
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 0.00 %
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 28.35 inHg
Engine RPM 0 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.00 mph


The only previous work in this van was alternator replacement 15000 miles ago. Needless to say, i drove that car last year and drove beatifully, engine was powerful and tranny worked good. They put on blocks because the alternator failed and let many months before repairing. They replaced the alternator and gradually the truck started with all the symptoms described before.

Im going to check the entire wiring harnesses and the CMP and CKP. Im researching about if these can be checked in any way or need to be replaced.

Any tips would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

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Welcome to Allpar. Maybe poor connections at the PCM or sensors. Sometimes removing and reinstalling a connector will wipe the terminals enough to re-establish a good connection.
Some of the codes may be related to something shared, like a 5 volt sensor supply voltage and could set multiple sensor codes.
Have you tried erasing them and seeing which ones come back?
The P1391 is scary as some flexplate cracking issues could cause this code. There is no real confirmation of this other than removing the transaxle for a visual inspection.
Get ahold of a factory service manual with diagnostic and wiring information to help you.
 

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Cracked flexplates are a somewhat common issue with the Gen III's. Discovered the flexplate was cracked on our former '00 T&C Ltd AWD (3.8L). The symptom in our case was a marble like rattling coming from the AC compressor when the engine was at idle. In reality it was the flexplate cracked in a jagged circle around the mounting holes with the sound of the flexplate cracking going down the crankshaft and exiting via the AC compressor. Never got a CEL light. Ended up costing $550 to repair. Only $67 for the flexplate - rest was labor cost. IC is correct - visual inspection is the only way to confirm.
 

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Sometimes there is no noise at all. Sometimes months go by before the code sets again.
A dual-trace scope watching the cam and crank sensors together will sometimes show a waveform that 'walks' around a little because of the flexplate 'float', but a worn timing chain can also 'float'.
 

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not having access to a code book, I'm going to make a few guesses based on living with old Mopars.

Rough running might be a stoppage or possible stoppage in the fuel lines, the fuel filter, junk in the
fuel pump intake or the fuel lines, a bad or dirty injector, or bad connexions to the plugs / distributor.
Or a vacuum leak. Or a clogged catalytic converter. A timing chain that's off or a timing gear that's
worn can throw things out of kilter, too. It could also all be some sort of electrical malfunction that
might be throwing codes over/above the actual problem (s) :frustrated: .
 

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Since it sat for quite a while, I'm going to suggest you just go through the harness and clean every connector you can find. As we all know too well, any type of corrosion can cause a multitude of problems. I'd start with the battery cables and work my way through the entire engine harness if it were mine.
 

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Sounds like another bad alternator. Test voltage at battery with engine off, then with engine running to determine if battery and alternator are good. Also check at alternator B+ post. Low voltage will cause all these codes and insufficient voltage will cause rough running. Just because it charges some at idle doesn't mean there isn't a bad diode in the bridge rectifier causing a discharge above idle while driving. In 20+ years in the shop the best thing I've learned is not to overlook the basics. Interpretation of symptoms is best done as a whole instead of focusing on each individual code - 9 times out of 10 it's one problem causing the whole mess.

Just my $0.02
 

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Re-reading the Freeze Frame data that you provided for P0117, I see an engine temperature of 260 deg F. The RPM is 0, so I would say the code was set with the engine off.
This could be heat-soak or overtemp. Check the cooling system. Does this vehicle run hot otherwise? If not, this could also be electrical at the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT).
If each code set a freeze frame, this would tell us the conditions under which each was set and help diagnosis.
 

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Concur with rechecking major electrical components -- a bad battery / weak alternator can wreak havoc with other electronics / electrical systems and computers.
 

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and a bad ballast resistor, come to think of it ...
 

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Bad gas? Gas gets old these days....for a snowmobile it only takes one short and cold swedish summer!
-have you poured some fresh gas in it?
 
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