Looking for a replacement carb for my Imperial with a stock 413. I am looking for reliability and ease of tune not necessarily performance (it's an Imperial very much a cruiser not a drag racer). Any suggestions?
49 New Yorker
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
·
22,042 Posts
Do you still have the original one? Has a rebuild been tried? What are your symptoms?
OEM was a Carter AFB with or without the bowl vent.
![Image]()
![Image]()
OEM was a Carter AFB with or without the bowl vent.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
·
22,042 Posts
I agree that the Carter AVS was more refined than the AFB. It was the next step in 4-bbl evolution before the Thermoquad.
I recommend OEM if only for the reason that the AFB is a factory-published application for this car. You wouldn't have to reposition or modify linkages or fuel lines, etc. Basically 'plug n' play' & calibrated for the car.
I believe that the AVS came after the 413-use in passenger cars, although the 413 went on into the 1970's as a truck/RV engine.
You take your chances finding a good reman AFB as they are a 60 year-old device now & most of the survivors are remaned reman remans that are stuck in a revolving door & need to be junked. I think that the last one I did took 2 or 3 returns before I had a good one.
The remanufacturer didn't see that someone had drilled out the air bleeds so that it would run while flooding over. 😬 I think that it got 'Hail Maryed' & put back on the shelf. They can't actually 'test' these carbs after a rebuild.
The Edelbrock 1406 would need help with attaching a working throttle & kickdown linkage. 600 CFM should be plenty.
![Image]()
I recommend OEM if only for the reason that the AFB is a factory-published application for this car. You wouldn't have to reposition or modify linkages or fuel lines, etc. Basically 'plug n' play' & calibrated for the car.
I believe that the AVS came after the 413-use in passenger cars, although the 413 went on into the 1970's as a truck/RV engine.
You take your chances finding a good reman AFB as they are a 60 year-old device now & most of the survivors are remaned reman remans that are stuck in a revolving door & need to be junked. I think that the last one I did took 2 or 3 returns before I had a good one.
The remanufacturer didn't see that someone had drilled out the air bleeds so that it would run while flooding over. 😬 I think that it got 'Hail Maryed' & put back on the shelf. They can't actually 'test' these carbs after a rebuild.
The Edelbrock 1406 would need help with attaching a working throttle & kickdown linkage. 600 CFM should be plenty.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
Joined
·
22,042 Posts
Keep in mind that you will be buying a 60 year-old fuel component with an unknown past. Improper storage or if the car sat for long periods can damage carburetors.
Repeated wet/dry cycles are damaging to fuel pump diaphragms, gaskets & check valves also. Fuel (& whatever else is in it) can be corrosive to aluminum, brass & steel.
A look inside a 60 year-old fuel tank can be a frightening sight. Consider the entire fuel system's condition when replacing a carburetor.
![Image]()
Mopar Filter #1670694:
![Image]()
![Image]()
Repeated wet/dry cycles are damaging to fuel pump diaphragms, gaskets & check valves also. Fuel (& whatever else is in it) can be corrosive to aluminum, brass & steel.
A look inside a 60 year-old fuel tank can be a frightening sight. Consider the entire fuel system's condition when replacing a carburetor.
Mopar Filter #1670694:
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
